Jewellery Set

This is an elaborate 19th century Indian necklace and earring set. The necklace is a wide choker with a central band of wire-strung repeated gold elements, with Gulf pearls at the top and a thick fringe of bejeweled gold and pearls below. Each gold element has an oval top, rectangle center, and double tear-drop bottom. On the front, these segments are all set with clear gemstones. On the back, they are enameled in red, green, and some blue and black, each with a detailed and unique bird at the center, the sides are enameled green. Atop each gold element sits a wire-wrapped red-enameled cup holding a pearl. Each pearl is threaded on the end of the wrapping wire, whose tip is topped in green glass. From the bottom of each gold element hang two dangles with clear gemstones in tear-drop, enameled settings and multiple seed pearls threaded on green-tipped wires. Large, conical gold links (modern additions/alterations) with a thick chain and hook and loop create the closure at back.

Each earring has a "gemstone”, set red enameled flower top segment (modern addition/alteration), from which hang two levels of clear gemstone-set domes with pearl and green glass dangles like those in the necklace fringe. The top dome is enameled primarily in red with some white accents, the bottom in white with red and green detail. A large pear-shaped pearl hangs from the center bottom of each. This piece exemplifies the established trade networks between the Gulf and India during the 19th century.