Kahu huruhuru (feather cloak), New Zealand

Maori cloaks or 'kakahu' encompass many styles, forms and materials. On arrival to New Zealand, the ancestors of the Maori were forced to experiment with new materials to produce garments suitable for the harsher environmental conditions. Primarily functional in purpose, kakahu protected from the cold and rain. Kakahu also signified the status of the wearer. Maori weaving continues to be a highly specialised practice involving tikanga [protocols], rituals and knowledge. Skills are primarily passed on through generations of women. Kahu huruhuru [feather cloaks] are a style of kakahuthat became popular in the latter half of the 19th century. Feathers had previously been incorporated into the weaving of cloaks, usually in the borders. During this period, however, they took on new significance in the overall design, covering the flax foundation in thick layers. This cloak incorporates feathers from the kotuku [white heron or Ardea alba modesta] and the now extinct huia (Heteralocha acutirostris). In Maori culture huia were highly valued. Indicative of an individual's status, their feathers were worn as personal adornment. The iridescent feathers in the dark sections of the cloak are possibly tui (Parson Bird or Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae). The combination is a striking pattern of alternating squares of black and white. The foundation of this cloak is made from harakeke (flax or Phormium tenax). Muka [flax fibre] is extracted from the harakeke and woven using whatu, a finger weft-twining technique, to form the kaupapa [foundation structure of the cloak]. Feathers are attached to the surface of the cloak during the whatu process.