Kakahu (cloak), New Zealand

Kakahu is the general term for a Maori cloak. On arrival to New Zealand, the ancestors of the Maori were forced to experiment with new materials to produce garments suitable for the harsher environmental conditions. Primarily functional in purpose, kakahu protected from the cold and rain. They also signified the status of the wearer. Maori weaving continues to be a highly specialised practice involving tikanga [protocols], rituals and knowledge. Skills are primarily passed on through generations of women. Kakahu encompass many forms and materials. The kaitaka, the korowai and the kahu huruhuru are three different styles that demonstrate this variation. Kaitaka are plain cloaks with taniko borders [geometric patterned edges]. They were the most prestigious garments at the time of European contact, renowned for their silky sheen and fine weaving. Korowai were popular in the early 19th century. Existing in many forms, they are identifiable by their surface decoration which include hukuhuka [tassels] and ngore [woollen pompoms]. Kahu huruhuru [feather cloaks] became popular in the latter half of the 19th century. In earlier cloaks, feathers were typically used in the borders only. Later in the 19th century, they were used across the whole cloak, covering the flax foundation in thick layers. This kakahu has connections to Ngati Paoa, a tribe from the North Island of New Zealand. It is innovative, combining features from each of these three styles of cloaks. It incorporates flax fibres and kiwi feathers together with wool and feathers from the introduced guineafowl, golden pheasant and peacock. Unlike the typical kahu huruhuru, peacock feathers are arranged in a manner similar to that of the hukahuka used to adorn korowai. Another innovative element of this cloak is the woollen edging, which echoes taniko borders. Unlike the kaitaka, however, patterning continues across the body of the cloak.