"Gros point" reached its peak in the 3rd quarter of the 17th century. It is characteristic of Italian production of that time. Made with a needle, this lace is distinguished from "punto in aria" by its formal freedom, totally free from any symmetry. Patterns take the form of thin ornate scrollwork of big blooming flowers of oriental inspiration, enhanced with a thick embroider and embellished with many costume points. At this time, this point was unprecedentedly fashionable in the court of France, prompting Colbert, superintendent of Finance for Louis XIV, to create lace factories on national soil.