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This long evening mantle made of purple silk, is embroidered with flowers in shades of pink, blue, white and green. It has a dark blue velvet band on the front and at both wrists. The mantle is gathered at the front and at the back where a flower made of purple silk is applied.

The mantle was made by the House of Worth in about 1909. After the death of the founder Charles-Frederik in 1895, his son Jean-Phlippe took charge of the artistic direction of the company. A man of refined taste, Jean-Philippe had studied painting with Corot and showed a strong interest in the many artistic movements arising at the beginning of the 20th century.

The mantle shows the influence Fauvism and Japonism had on colours and fashion styles during this period. Another powerful influence on fashion was Les Ballets Russes, with their Oriental-inspired themes and costumes. Evening mantles, such as this one, would become increasing fashionable especially during the early 1920s, when the public responded to the rage for anything Oriental.

Details

  • Title: Mantle
  • Creator: Jean-Philippe Worth
  • Date Created: 1904/1913
  • Location: Paris
  • Provenance: Given by Lord and Lady Cowdray
  • Medium: Hand-embroidered silk and hand-sewn velvet

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