Maori woman, Thames, New Zealand

This photograph depicts an unidentified Maori woman of unknown tribal affiliation. It was taken by the New Zealand photographer Arthur James Iles. It is one of a series of twenty studio portraits of Maori taken by Iles in Museum Victoria's collections. A professional photographer active during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Iles photographed a range of subjects including people, landscapes, historical and tourist sites as well as indigenous flora and fauna. Iles's specialisation was portraiture, particularly of the Maori population. Maori life had been a common subject among photographers since the mid 19th century. Popular with the non-indigenous population, several categories of Maori pictures dominated the market. These included nostalgic depictions of 'beauties' and 'noble warriors' and the re-enactment of pre-contact life. The emergence of postcards around the beginning of the 20th century resulted in a resurgence in the production of photographs of Maori. A business man, Iles recognised this renewed interest in Maori culture. He drew on established subjects, photographing senior men and young women. Iles's efforts to attract Maori to his studios were aided by two factors. Firstly his association with Captain Gilbert Mair, a highly regarded captain of Maori troops loyal to the colonial government, facilitated visits by Maori community. Secondly, his marriage to Rebecca Elsie Utuatonga, a Maori woman, is likely to have assisted him to encourage young women to be photographed. In this photograph, the woman is wearing a korowai [cloak with hukahuka or tassels]. The korowai were a popular style of kakahu [Maori cloak] in the early 19th century. The origins of korowai are in the pake, rain capes formed with multiple layers of flat strips of flax. Over time these flax strips became increasingly decorative in purpose, their functional form being replaced by hukahuka. The korowai worn by the woman is an example of this new focus on aesthetics. It is likely that the foundation of this cloak is made from harakeke (flax, or Phormium tenax). Muka [flax fibre] is extracted from the harakeke and woven using whatu, a finger weft-twining technique, to form the kaupapa [foundation structure of the cloaks]. Adornments are attached to the surface of the cloak during the whatu process.