Mourning Gown

Gown: Woman's evening three-piece reception gown in black silk faille with black corded lace over purple faille underlay, consisting of (A) bodice, (B) dickey, and (C) skirt;
(A) Fitted bodice; black corded lace with purple faille underlay extends from shoulder seams to waist in V-shape; scalloped edge of lace along V-neckline; inverted V at sides of black silk faille with two sets of princess seams; black silk satin ribbon with single pleat along its length extends from armscye to center front closure along seams of lace and purple faille to black faille; black satin ribbon bow with six poufs at center front closure at waistline; nine button closure; bound buttonholes partially concealed by lace and purple faille at proper left of closure; self-fabric covered spherical shank buttons at proper right side of closure; three hook-and-eye closure [added later]; long leg-of-mutton, set-in sleeves with fullness at top and black satin puffed ribbon with bow at upper portion of arm; fitted lower sleeve; turned-up cuff in corded lace over purple faille underlay; black corded lace and purple faille underlay in V-shaped yoke at upper back; center back and two sets of princess seams; two slits at lower back with pointed tails at sides and pleated cascading tail at center; fully lined in brown silk; boning sewn into twill casings at princess seams and side seams;
(B) High-necked dickey insert of black corded lace over purple silk faille underlay; two and one-quarter inch band collar with boning at center front; top edged in folded ruffled of cream crêpe chiffon; front portion in rectangular shape with slight taper at bottom; small rectangular panels of black silk taffeta attached to back of collar and shoulder seams; black silk faille lining; off-white linen strip applied to inner collar edge; purple silk faille applied at bottom of lining, seamed to underlay.
(C) Floor-length trained skirt primarily of black faille with large center front insert of black corded lace with purple faille underlay; black faille waistband with black grosgrain inner waistband; two hook-and-eye closures on each waistband at center back; skirt front in three panels of purple faille; short panel of black corded lace with scalloped edge over long panel of same lace with scalloped edge at hem; knife-pleated black faille trim at hem; two black silk moiré 7/8" wide ribbons extend from top of waistband to hem [proper right ribbon missing]; sides and hem trimmed with ruffle of black faille, edged in knife pleats; seam of ruffle topped with smaller ruffle with purple faille facing; skirt back in six triangular pieces with two narrow triangular inserts between second and third panels and fourth and fifth panels; hem faced in purple silk with black corduroy dust catcher.
Label: none
Date: 1897-1899

Hat: Bonnet of black velvet with cut steel ornaments, black metal sequins and black feathers; form-fitting crown of black silk velvet; black velvet is twisted and gathered at each side; center front has velvet pulled through four-sided buckle of cut steel; five inch tall narrow black feathers strung with black beads and curved wires strung with black metal sequins at front of bonnet above buckle; center back crown cut away; line of cut steel scroll motifs placed over black velvet bow just above cut-away portion; cut steel buckle at each side; black velvet ribbons at each side; glazed buckram lining.
Label: none
Date: c. 1895

Earrings: Pair of hairwork drop earrings with black enamel and gold frame, and pansy motif; small oval earrings framed with black enamel and inset frame of engraved gold; center consists of glass covered compartment containing hair-work; hair-work made of light brown hair that has been chopped and pressed into single pansy flower, stems, and leaves; hair-work on white ground; back made up of gold setting with French ear wires.
Label: none
Date: c. 1820-1850

Necklace: Jet sautoir (necklace) composed of long rope of faceted jet beads with triangular pendants at each end; starburst design in faceted and round jet beads on both sides of each pendant; fringe of round and larger faceted beads hang from pendants.
Label: none
Date: c. 1885

Brooch: Hairwork mourning circular brooch of black onyx with a cross of seed pearls; circle of black onyx with cross at center made of seed pearls; cross outlined in ridged gold; gold metal setting borders perimeter of onyx; reverse made of gold metal setting with glass covered compartment at center; compartment contains brown braided hair; thin gold chain connects at back at metal pin and loop closure; chain extends down and connects to safety pin with twisted detail at its center and knob top.
Label: none
Date: c. 1820-1850

Stickpin: Hairwork mourning stick pin with pearls and garter motif; small oval pin framed with black enamel; "IN LOVING MEMORY" in gold on black enamel, as well as garter designs at bottom end of pin; garter end extends off bottom of pin; at center of pin is a glass covered compartment framed with seed pearls; compartment contains brown hair in the shape of three plumes; gold thread ties three plumes together at one end; "E.G./died/1st Feb. 1887" engraved on backside of pin; two metal loops extend out and come together at pin end; pin has twisted detail at its center.
Label: none
Date: February 1, 1887

Miniature: Large oval hairwork pendant with miniature painting of a boy; gold metal loop at top center of pendant; oval gold frame; glass covers painted miniature of a young boy with curly blonde hair wearing a blue bowtie holding a toy; "E. Hall" lightly painted in black at the left of boy; ivory ground; opposite side has locks of boy's curly blonde hair with gold thread covered by glass; cream ribbed silk ground.
Label: none
Date: 1850-1900

Enameled Ring: British mourning hairwork ring with seed pearls, enamel, and braided blonde hair; three seed pearls set in gold with one star-cut at center and two foliate-cuts at sides; black enamel as ground for entire front side of ring; center top of ring is a compartment and opens to reveal braided blonde hair underneath glass; "In Memoriam" in gold on outside of band; "My dear Father died March 10th 1881." engraved on inside of band; hallmarks engraved on inside of band across from engraving.
Label: none
Date: March 10, 1881

Engraved Ring: Hairwork ring with belt motif and hinged compartment; gold ring with engravings on outside of band; band in shape of a belt with buckle, keeper, and belt end; hinge lays underneath belt buckle allowing top portion of band to open and reveal compartment containing brown woven hair; square metal portion within compartment has engraving of "S.L.".
Label: none
Date: c. 1820-1850