Mumtaz changed all the rules and created the defining moment when nothing came between you and your saree. For the song ‘Aaj Kal Tere Mere’, in Brahmachari (1968) her brilliantly orange saree hugged all her curves but allowed her to move with a new abandon. Freedom was celebrated and exalted. Exaggerated eyeliner, big hair and even bigger jewellery heralded a moment when women were meant to be seen, heard and admired.