Necklace

This necklace is an example of a leading Paris jeweller working in the Japanese style. Japanese art and design had scarcely been seen in Europe between 1624 and the 1850s. Consequently, the Japanese Court at the London Exhibition of 1862 and similar displays at the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1867 generated immense interest among artists and designers. In this type of enamelling (cloisonné) the precise outlines of the design are the result of the tiny 'cloisons' or cells that hold the enamel and which have to be individually shaped from thin gold strips. It is an intricate technique, and these enamels were costly. The flower and bird motifs are taken from Japanese prints, although the vibrant shades chosen show the influence of Chinese work. The collector and art critic Philippe Burty commented at the time that 'These jewels harmonise perfectly with the bright colours women are wearing today'.