Nike, “Air Jordon” sneakers, leather and rubber, 1985, USA, gift of Nike, Inc.

Hip hop did more to popularize sneakers in American culture than any other force. Run DMC rapped about Adidas shelltoes in 1986 and became the first rap group with a million-dollar endorsement deal. Nike was as influential. In 1985, basketball star Michael Jordan was among the first to have a branded men’s shoe. His popularity created a new relationship between fans—mostly young men—and fashion. Concurrently, hip hop was an important cultural space for young men to experiment with style.