This drape from northern Bihar has front pleats which form a peplum. This laheriya sari is hand dyed by Master Tyebji of Jodphur.
How-to Drape Instructions
1. Make about 6 pleats with inner end of sari and hold at center front waist.
2. Bring outer end once anticlockwise and knot over pleats.
3. Allow pleats to fall outwards and gently pull to fan.
4. Bring outer end anticlockwise and drape pallu from back to front over right shoulder. Tuck in end at center back waist.
5. Drape remaining pallu over head.
The sari's design is universal and limitless, referenced around the world for its drape, textile and history. It is versatile and adaptable to context, environment and culture, with its making directly tied to the livelihoods of millions of karigars (craftspeople).
Traditionally, it is a single piece of unstitched fabric with variable densities in its parts - with heavier weights allowing for it to drape correctly. Today, its definition includes textiles woven by mill or by hand, often with one density.
Border&Fall’s project is a non-profit cultural documentation of an incredible textile and garment contribution from India, intended to address a perception shift of the sari, which is often seen as staid, traditional and increasingly worn only on formal occasions, particularly in urban India. Each of these films features a drape from a particular region in India, represented through fifteen states. Every drape stays true to its region, whereas the textiles and blouse pairings have been styled to represent a vision of the sari's changing presence.
This project was created by Border&Fall and its team includes Malika Verma Kashyap, Rta Kapur Chishti, Deep Kailey, Rashmi Varma, Sanjay Garg, Sunitha Kumar Emmart, Julia FG Smith, Suniti Rao, Rhea Subramanian, Pallavi Verma, Sharanya Aggarwal, Mehak Kapur Chishti, Carol Humtsoe and TJ Bhanu.