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Patola Panel -Installation

Chhotalal Salvi

National Institute of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology
Bengaluru, India

The tradition of double ikat weaving in Patan, Gujarat is known as the patola and at the time of the Visvakarma commissions, was observed to have continued its use of materials, technical skills and repertory of designs from an earlier period. Historically imported to Southeast Asia, especially Indonesia, as ritual cloths, their saree versions are known to have become popular among wealthy Gujaratis in due course. This textile is noteworthy for its size, extending the weaving of double ikat weaving in Patan known as the patola, towards a large width unexplored before. In the process, it becomes an art work beyond its original functional uses as objects of worship or the apparel. The pattern in the field is called chabadi bhat or basket pattern, with the central motif of a diapered medallion with an octagonal flower.

Developed at Sambalpuri Bastralaya in Odisha, the exhibit features conch or sankha. The beauty of Ikat of Odisha is the perfection in curvilinear motifs. The richly endowed land of Kalinga or the modern day Odisha has one of the finest expositions of Ikat weaving. The visual balance of the panel is kept by the arresting red borders on all four sides in scroll motif. One of the tasks of Visvakarma commissions was to not only explore the capabilities of the artisan but also to infuse commercial viability into the products. The exploration of new motifs and colours was central to this venture. It is interesting to note that the conch motif was explored in sarees from the region which met with great success.

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  • Title: Patola Panel -Installation
  • Creator: Chhotalal Salvi
  • Date Created: 1986
  • Location Created: Gujarat
  • Physical Dimensions: 123 cm x 126 cm
  • Type: Hand Weaving
  • Rights: Curatorial Right: NIFT Bengaluru
  • Medium: Textile
  • Technique: Plain Weave with Resist Dye Patterning in Warp and Weft (Double Ikat)
  • Photography: Sanjeev C M
  • Material: Silk
  • Manufacturer: Chhotalal Salvi, Patan
National Institute of Fashion Technology

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