Jewels enclosing locks of hair had been in circulation in England since at least the 17th century. In many of these pieces, strands of hair were woven or plaited, or formed into miniature scenes. Jewels with carved rock crystal faces, mounted over ciphers with a background of worked hair, were produced in order to commemorate the
death of King Charles I in 1649.
Money to make mourning rings and jewellery was often left in wills, to be worn by loved ones after the testator's death. Member of Parliament, and famed diarist, Samuel Pepys, left 123 such rings on his death in 1703. These jewels became more commonplace throughout the course of the eighteenth century, taking the form of rings, slides, lockets and pendants, and could be afforded by individuals of more limited means. Hair was added as a personal and intimate reminder of the individual, both in love jewels and in those made after death. It is possible that this jewel set with Frances Fisher's hair was made as a gift to a friend or lover and then reused as a memorial.
Seed pearls were frequently set into mourning and sentimental jewels of the period. Symbolising tears, they could be worn as accessories to the simple white or mauve fabrics appropriate for 'half-mourning.'