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By the end of the 1920s, dresses had gradually become longer, and a slimmer, more form-fitting silhouette prevailed. The biascut, masterfully executed by Madeleine Vionnet since the early 1920s, was the ideal medium for the realisation of this new streamlined form. Gowns of unmatched elegance emerged, evening wear in particular, such as this heavy campanulate evening dress. The off-the-shoulder wrap top, with V-shaped front and back necklines, is held by only narrow straps. The wide four-panel skirt begins at the waist beneath a wide sash ribbon. It has a laterally trimmed, rectangular hemline and forms a long train at the back. A petticoat of the same cut is securely mounted. It closes on the left with hook and eye closure and a snap. Perhaps the dress was combined with an evening jacket, as suggested by the very similar design. Edward Molyneux (1891-1974) founded his couture house in 1919. Princess Marina of Greece (1906–1968), whom he outfitted in 1934 on the occasion of her wedding with Prince George, 1st Duke of Kent, is counted among its most well known customers. The dress of the Kunstgewerbemuseum collection comes from the estate of the princess.

Details

  • Title: Pistachio Green Evening Gown with Train
  • Creator: Captain Edward Molyneux
  • Creator Lifespan: 5.9.1891 - 23.3.1974
  • Creator Nationality: British
  • Creator Gender: Male
  • Date: ca. 1932
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Provenance: 2003 Kamer/Ruf collection; 1991 Robert & Millon auction house, Paris; estate of Princess Marina (later Duchess of Kent), Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
  • Proof of manufacture: Woven label in left side seam: MODÈLE MOLYNEUX 5, Rue Royale, MADE IN FRANCE; linen band marked at hem with handwritten model number: V 2 Molyneux.146
  • Place of origin: Paris, France
  • Length: Fl. 164 cm, bl. 218 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Type: Dress
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html
  • Medium: Regenerated cellulose, crêpe satin, metal; Lining: crêpe de chine

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