Doll's undress gown

Object Type

The style of this nightgown derives from the Japanese kimono. Kimonos first appeared in Western Europe in the 1650s as annual gifts from the Japanese shoguns (hereditary commanders-in-chief of the Japanese army) to members of the Dutch East India Company. They became popular garments in Europe and the demand for them soon outstripped the supply from Japan. Both the Dutch and English East India companies began importing kimonos from India, made of the printed cottons available there.

Materials & Techniques

Lord Clapham's nightgown is very similar to the Japanese style of the kimono. It is hand-sewn of salmon-pink satin with a floral pattern in purple, pale blue, emerald green, lime green, orange and deep pink. The silk is French or Italian in origin, probably woven about 1680. The nightgown is lined with a patterned blue Chinese export silk, which forms the cuffs and facings.

Ownership & Use

Various styles of informal gown had been in use in England since the 16th century. In the late 17th century men wore westernised versions of the kimono as informal gowns over a shirt and breeches. This ensemble would be worn when getting up in the morning and before dressing in the formal clothes required for public activities. At the end of the day, many men removed their coats and waistcoats, and donned a nightgown for relaxing in private at home.