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Scarf

early 1900s

The Cleveland Museum of Art

The Cleveland Museum of Art
Cleveland, United States

Egyptians may have innovated <em>tulle-bi-telli</em> (“net with metal,” also called <em>assiut</em>) after the French introduced machine-made netted fabric (tulle) in the late 1800s. It drew from <em>telli,</em> an earlier metal embroidery technique. Diamond and rectangle designs formed by knotting flattened silver wire into black tulle indicate this scarf’s early age in the genre. Urban Egyptian singers and dancers performed in heavy, shimmering tulle-bi-telli costumes during the late 1800s through the mid-1900s. Elite Egyptian city dwellers also wore it. Similar ones were sold at the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago and to tourists in Egypt, a possible origin for this example. In the US, tulle-bi-telli scarves were made into home decor and 1920s flapper-style clothing.

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Learn more about this artwork.
  • Title: Scarf
  • Date Created: early 1900s
  • Physical Dimensions: Overall: 221 x 82.2 cm (87 x 32 3/8 in.)
  • Provenance: Mrs. Edward N. Dekker, Sr., gifted to the Cleveland Museum of Art, The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH
  • Type: Garment
  • Rights: CC0
  • External Link: https://clevelandart.org/art/1974.1058
  • Medium: Probably cotton and silver-plated copper foil
  • Fun Fact: There is so much metal in this shawl that it weighs nearly 4.5 pounds.
  • Department: Textiles
  • Culture: Africa, North Africa, Egypt, Assiut, Egyptian maker
  • Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Edward N. Dekker, Sr.
  • Collection: Textiles
  • Accession Number: 1974.1058
The Cleveland Museum of Art

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