Shirt

Without precise tailoring it is difficult to combine fullness and close-fit in one garment. The problem has been solved in this boy's shirt by using concertina-like pin-tucks to reduce the fullness across the chest, combined with loose gathers over the shoulders and a drawstring around the waist. The pin-tucks and the gathers change the character of the plain cotton cloth by adding textures and shadows.

To a certain extent this three-dimensional quality is balanced by the addition of flat satin-stitch embroidery in red, orange and purple cotton. The narrow vertical rows nestle within the pin-tucks, while the more prominent central row (with orange pearlized buttons) and the waistband are softened by a pointed edging of needle lace. The collar, which is slightly overshadowed by the exuberant decoration across the chest, features eyelet embroidery. This gives another textural effect that changes the nature of the cloth.

Eyelets have been used to great effect along the edges of the very full sleeves: the holes have been oversewn with white cotton and contrasted with narrow, solid bands of red, making the sleeves look delicate and pretty. A sharp metal die will have been used to stamp out these holes and to produce the scalloped edges. It would have been impossible to use scissors or a knife to produce such regular edges and identical holes.