The coat of this suit references the jackets of the Incroyables of the French Directoire and the dandies of the English Regency. The collar, cut high as in the historical precedents, falls in soft folds and wrinkles like the neckerchief of a fop. James seamed together the “tails” of the coat to form a low back cowl drape. Of the style, James wrote: “The cutaway look was at this time [1933] not at all in the ‘market’....It simply looked well and gave the wearer a distinction.”