The section on makeup that includes beni is “Makeup in the Culture of Kyoto”

“Techniques to make thick lips look thinner”
This section illustrated techniques to make the mouth look small using oshiroi to cover the outline of the lips if one’s lips are thick or mouth is big.
In those days, a small mouth, a so-called “ochobo-guchi,” was preferred and considered beautiful. Therefore, makeup that emphasized thickness or large lips was avoided. Beni was hardly applied to the upper lip, and instead was applied only on the center of the lower lip. This is different from today, when lipstick is used to color all of both lips. Japanese women long took a timid approach to lip makeup and only started to emphasize their lips after World War II.