Thomson's Empress

People first used the word 'crinoline' to describe petticoats lined with horsehair cloth in the 1840s. Women often wore crinolines with up to eight petticoats to help support the fashionable wide skirt. Sometimes they had to use padding to give the correct shape. By 1856, ever widening skirts meant the weight of these petticoats became very uncomfortable. Various designs attempted to solve this problem, including petticoats made from inflatable rubber tubes. These were a failure owing to unexpected punctures.

The 'artificial' or 'cage' crinoline appeared in 1857 as a welcome and more practical alternative. It was made of spring steel hoops that increased in diameter towards the bottom and connected with tapes. The number of hoops ranged from 9 to 18 according to the formality of the dress. The variety of different crinoline styles on the market was huge. Spring steel was the most popular material for the frame because it was flexible. In Sheffield, manufacturers produced enough crinoline wire each week to make over half a million crinolines.

Although crinolines were light, women often found them cumbersome and restrictive. Many compared them to steel birdcages. Devices were invented to make sitting down easy. Sometimes the hoops even had hinges to make it easier for women to go through doorways and up stairs.