Waistcoat

Solid spirals of golden silk decorate the neck of this waistcoat which is made from black felt. Narrow strips of black silk velvet bind the armholes, the neck and the upper part of the front opening. It is double-breasted and can be fastened to the left or to the right, although most surviving photographs of this type of garment being worn show it fastened right over left. When fastened this way the full effect of the dense embroidery can be seen.

The silk thread, which has faded slightly, was originally bright orange with small details worked in green. If fastened the other way--left over right--a different, less dense pattern is revealed which includes a series of narrow lines worked over wide strips of applied black silk velvet. The delicacy of the embroidered lines allows the velvet pile to show and is in sharp contrast to the strength that would have been required to take the silk thread through three layers of fabric: velvet, felt and the lining of cotton canvas.