The flared skirt and waisted jacket (with a gathered basque) of this civilian costume echo the lines of many female World War I (1914-1918) uniforms that were, of course, made of more durable and practical fabrics. The braid and tassels add a further military touch, and the shorter, freedom-giving skirt is of particular interest. The deep navy is typical of the plain, dark and dull colours worn during those sombre times. The jacket is lined with white silk and has the label 'Marshall & Snelgrove, Oxford St W'. James Marshall co-founded the firm's London shop in 1838. Branches were later established in Scarborough and Harrogate (a spa town and seaside resort respectively) in Yorkshire.