Wall Hanging, Spread or Cover

The large silk thread embroidery showing concentric circles and squares depicting a mandala or a yantra is almost entirely done in chain stitch in the typical idiom of Kutch, Gujarat. In all probability, this 19th century piece represents an abstract form of adhaidvipa, two-and-a-half continents of human habitations as conceived in Jaina cosmography.

In the Jain diagram of adhaidvipa,the central circle represents the continent of Jambudvipa, in the center of which is the mythical Mount Meru, also common to Hindu Cosmography. Jambudvipa is surrounded by several continents and oceans- each in the form of a widening circle. Each circle is alternated by an ocean. Except for the central two and half continents of human habitation, the rest of the continents such as Dhataki and Mannshottara are inhabited by non-humans.

The textile is an intricately embroidered chakla or wall hanging done in dense ari or mochi embroidery, a type of chain stitch done with the help of an ari or awl, a hooked needle where the thread is introduced from below. This technique was used by the mochis or cobblers for stitching and embroidery on leather and was adopted and perfected in Gujarat on textiles used by the ladies of the nomadic communities.