More Information: Object Type
These are two items of an ensemble that James, Duke of York, wore to his wedding in 1673. It represents a new fashion in men's wear that had been introduced several years before by the Duke's older brother, Charles II. The style came from France where it derived from the justaucorps, a version of military coat made fashionable by Louis XIV.
The Duke of York married for a second time in 1673. His second wife was Mary of Modena (1658-1718), whom he had married by proxy in Italy in September. The marriage contract was confirmed in November upon Mary's arrival at Dover. The second ceremony was a subdued affair, as Mary was a Roman Catholic and the union was unpopular in England and at court. Only the Duke's closest supporters attended and there were none of the public ceremonies or processions normally associated with royal weddings. The Duke of York wore this coat and breeches at Dover.
Design & Designing
Although symmetrical, the design of stylised flowers and leaves is not repeating. This suggests that it was drawn freehand and not transferred from a printed pattern. Couching attaches the silver and silver-gilt threads to the surface of the fabric. Tiny strips of parchment wrapped in metal thread give the embroidery three-dimensional effect.
Materials and Techniques: Wool, embroidered with silver and silver-gilt thread and lined with red silk
Dimensions: [Coat] Length: 91.4 cm, Width: 76 cm at hem, Depth: 38 cm at hem[Breeches] Length: 68.6 cm