Associated with ceremonial rites of India, and deemed to be ritually pure, silk has been a highly revered fabric and continues to be a popular and widely used material. This garment was described in the 1852 Inventory as 'Pethumbur Zurd', 'worn by men in mourning or at meals'. Benares (Varanasi) was an important centre of fine weaving from ancient times. It developed as a silk weaving centre during the Mughal period and is still one of the major silk weaving centres in India.