Ariadna, L. S. Bakst. About Fashion: A Conversation With Artist L. S. Bakst

ABOUT FASHION
A conversation with artist L.S. Bakst
The other day, I had an opportunity to discuss costume design and fashion with L.S. Bakst. The artist permanently lives in Paris and is not only well aware of all fashion news, but also personally draws costumes, corrects the designs by French artists and tailors, as well as gives advice and directions. Besides, it was this artist who created costumes for almost all ballets that were presented by Diaghilev in Paris and had worldwide success.
L.S. Bakst has long been hesitant to talk about fashion.
Why?
“In Russia,” the artist explained, “they haven’t yet got used to the fact that a serious artist could be interested in fashion, create fashion, or work for fashion. It seems wild to our people. But Paris is another story! It’s a place where I feel free to express my opinion of a certain dress, cloak, or hat. No one would consider it unworthy of the artist’s talent or disparaging. In Paris I often visit great tailors like Worth, Paquin, Lucile, and Callot. Numerous designs are called after me, especially those in my favorite colors, for instance, deep blue, or having my favorite color combinations, of green and red.”
“In my view, engaging in fashion is by no means a waste of time. I also do not agree that fashion can depend on a single woman’s whim. The greatness of fashion consists in the fact that women from all corners of the globe, without knowing each other, simultaneously choose the same ideal, and all of them strive to it and achieve it, although, perhaps, in different ways. Fashion is a reflection of mass taste development, and as fashion is led by women, and women are noted for their sensitivity, fashion often goes one step ahead of art, following the women’s instincts. It’s common for a man to first put on something that he would later paint on canvas or show in a sculpture.”
“You do not agree that women lead the way in fashion, referring to male tailors. But all they do is present designs for women’s approval. If a woman’s instinct tells her that a new design is not a way to the chosen ideal, she will not accept it.”
I asked what the artist saw as an ideal in women’s clothes.
“Full resemblance to men’s ones,” he answered. “Don’t think that my jupes-culottes that caused a stir but soon went out of fashion are gone forever. They’ll certainly come back. It is safe to say that in no more than fifteen years the women’s costume will be almost identical to the men’s one.”
“Take this year’s tailleurs. Narrow skirts and tuxedo-like jackets. There were attempts to make skirts wider, to soften the lines, but it was all in vain. Now a woman’s silhouette resembles a man’s one from a distance. All those laces, puffy collars and cuffs they are trying so hard to bring into fashion are only a palliative.”
“The latest era of costume has started with Russian ballet performances in Paris. Parisian ladies liked the brightly colored Scheherazade costumes so much that all they wanted both in life and on stage was imitation of the Oriental fashion. At first all costumes were a kind of transitional, Persian and Indian nature, then Indian only. Shawls and burnouses appeared. The latter ones were used without a single modification like sortie de bal. Then, naturally, they started moving further into the Orient, and started imitating Chinese fashion. Ladies in Paris and London only wear Chinese men’s clothes when at home.
The colors went through the same evolution. This is why now we can see unprecedented color combinations.”
“Would you like to know if fashion will be inspired by old shapes or will be looking for new ones?
Any progress is a kind of reaction, and it’s possible that, having made three steps forward, fashion will take one step back; but such returns will be temporary ones. Art and fashion share the same trend: sharp lines and vivid colors.
While today it might seem impossible for women to give up skirts, just a few years ago it seemed impossible for them to give up French heels. But look at them now – they’re about to wear high boots.
So if old fashion is to come back, those would be minor retreats, and not returns to the times of Louis XVI in any case. Like French women say, elles ont soupé du Louis XVI.”
Ariadna.