In Search of Zari Zardozi in the Streets of Old Delhi

Lal Quila, or Red Fort, is an important landmark of Old Delhi. Constructed in the mid-17th century, as the residence of the Mughal emperors, it has witnessed landmark events in the city’s history. It is from here that the Indian Prime Minister makes his annual Independence Day address to the nation.

The Jama Masjid, a mosque built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, is located in the heart of Old Delhi. Even today, it continues to be the principal mosque of Delhi.

A view of the courtyard of the Jama Masjid from one of its minarets. The courtyard can accommodate 25,000 people. The city bustles outside the calm environs of the mosque.

The architecture carries within it stories of its multi-layered history.

A street in Old Delhi showing a blend of Indian and European architectural styles.

The narrow and crowded lanes of Old Delhi open up a unique world. The havelis, old houses built in traditional style, are a window to a gracious lifestyle of times gone by.

There are family homes of Delhi’s old artists, writers and poets – names associated with the city’s culture and history.

The red sandstone engraving announces the house of Mirza Ghalib, an iconic Urdu and Persian-language poet of the 19th century.

Ghalib’s house has been converted into a memorial to honour his work and contributions.

The Ghalib Memorial has on display the wedding clothes of the poet’s wife. Shown here is the delicate gold zari zardozi work on the veil.

Around the corner is tucked away a little tea stall, selling sweet milk tea. In Old Delhi, even the tea shops and eateries claim a long lineage.

Another street opens out to a market, with shops and vendors selling groceries and fresh vegetables.

A vendor sells kulfi, a local version of ice cream. The kulfi of Old Delhi is a sought-after delicacy, especially as a dessert at weddings.

Walking through the streets of Old Delhi reveals a surprise at every corner. Shown here is the entrance to an old haveli, a traditional home, which is still occupied by its original owners.

An unassuming doorway marks the entrance to Chunna Mal ki Haveli, a traditional home occupied by the fourth generation of its owners.

From the outside, many such old dwellings give little hint of what they are like inside.

Inside Chunna Mal ki Haveli; the airy rooms with their high ceilings and extended verandas are built around a large central courtyard.

The palatial, old world air of this house has made it the choice location for several period films made on Delhi.

One famous street is Paranthe Wali Gali. People come from afar to partake of the special paranthas (a kind of stuffed bread) served here. The street features in many a heritage walk of this part of the city.

The Dariba Kalan market is known for its traditional silver and gold jewellery. Shri Ram Hari Ram, a shop that was established 100 years ago, is famous for its traditional wedding jewellery.

Ballimaran area of the Old City is the largest footwear market of the country. Shown here are hand crafted sandals for men, favoured for festivals and occasions like marriages.

Haseen-ud-Din, at his large open kitchen, making his famous chicken biryani (spiced rice cooked with chicken).

Eateries like this are known for their traditional cuisine, and cater to orders for large events and parties.

Nek Ram and Hari Singh preparing Nagori Halwa at their shop in Sita Ram Bazar. Considered a royal delicacy, this preparation is served mostly at weddings.

For special occasions and functions, people from different parts of the city place orders at shops like this in Old Delhi.

The search for zari zardozi ends at Kinari Bazar, another specialised market. This area particularly caters to weddings.

The market takes its name from 'kinari', meaning border or edging. Seen in the picture are some of the different kinds of ornamental borders available here.

Niarion, another locality of Old Delhi, has a cluster of zardozi workshops. Mohammed Sadik peeps out from the embroidery workshop where he works along with four other craftsmen.

Small workshops like this one are scattered around the neighbourhood.

Much of the zardozi work done in Old Delhi is for sale in the shops within the old city itself.

This is also the market for bridal wear. There are several shops displaying traditional garments heavily embroidered with zari zardozi.

People come here from afar to put together their wedding trousseaus.

Pawan Kumar Jain, 78, sits at his shop in Kinari Bazar. Wearing a wedding turban, he looks no less than a groom.

With a history of 100 years, the shop is known for its wide offering of wares related to weddings: ornamented turbans and garlands, gift items, trousseau packing and ritual objects.

Read more about Zari Zardozi of Old Delhi here :

- Zari Zardozi Embroidery of Old Delhi
- Embroidery with Metallic Threads