Fashion at Versailles: “For him”

Chapiter I: The main fashion trends in the 1780s:

Men’s attire in the 1780s were comprised of three main parts: the
justeaucorps, which was the coat that later evolved to the frac, the waistcoat,
and breeches. Shapes were simplified in favour of a more slender silhouette
without affectation.

The letter which is part of this engraving describes the type of costume: “Habit de printemps à la Française. M. the Count of Provence. This habit, although plainer, is in the same style as the king’s. This type of habit à la française was worn at the end of the Ancien Régime. […] The habit à la française is composed of a justeaucorps, coat and breeches. The justeaucorps, which was looser-fitting than the frac à l'anglaise, was never worn fastened, despite being decorated with buttons and button holes. It had a straight collar made of the same fabric, in contrast to the English-style collars which were turned-over and made of a different colour. The justeaucorps had external pockets whose flaps constituted an essential element of decoration. The waistcoat was very long and had sleeves, meaning it could be worn without a justeaucorps in négligée dress, and was generally made of a different colour; it hung low and had basques in front and behind…”

“…The breeches, made of the same fabric as the justeaucorps, were tightened just above the knee by a narrow garter with loops and decorated along the seams with a row of small buttons. The buckles on the shoes, which were square and descended low down the foot, were known as Artois buckles. The hat, a plain tricorne made of black felt with a white border, was more often held in the wearer’s hands or under the arm than worn on the head. It was an integral part of the habit à la française, whereas the attire à l'anglaise was worn with bicorne hats, turned up at the front (à la suisse), or at the side.”

#1 Grand habit de cour
The King was identified by his clothing, characteristic of his function, and namely the coronation attire which included the sceptre, the manteau adorned with fleur-de-lis and made with ermine in the underside, the crown and the hand of justice.

Louis XVI is dressed in the same way as his illustrious ancestors, as attested to by the portrait of Louis XIV by Hyacinthe Rigaud and the one of Louis XV by Louis-Michel Van Loo. The blue of the thick wall hangings matches the coronation manteau decorated with fleur-de-lis and the fabric covering the floor. The column behind the King symbolises power and authority. The white of the ermine fur on the inside of the manteau and on the collar lightens the
King’s face. Louis XVI is also wearing a long-sleeved shirt of elaborate white silk, bouffant breeches, white silk stockings and light-coloured shoes with a large buckle and a red heel, as was the custom at court among the nobles. Like his grandfather, he is holding a hat decorated with white plumes in a white-gloved-hand. The regalia are depicted beside him. On a cushion adorned with fleur-de-lis to his right is the hand of justice and the crown; the hand of justice, which symbolises the King’s power to administer justice, is depicted here as a left hand in silver.

#2 Habit de cour  
The habit de cour was a habit à la française or habit d’été, often made of valuable fabric such as velvet, silk or satin. The shape of clothing became more understated, in contrast to the fashion during the reign of Louis XVI, while colour gradually played a more defining role.

A personal friend of Louis XVI, the Count of Angiviller was made Director General of Buildings, Arts, Gardens and Manufactures of France at the ascension of the king in 1774. Here he is dressed in a habit d’été and breeches made of a lilac-coloured silk fabric, reflecting the fact he is a knight of the Order of the Holy Spirit, the King’s order. The ecru silk waistcoat gives the minister a radiant air.

#3 Military uniforms
Military uniforms identified the specific function of each officer in the royal regiments.

The Duke of Brissac, who was Madame du Barry’s last lover after the death of Louis XV, is dressed here in the uniform of his prestigious function as Captain of the King’s Hundred Swiss Guards and Governor of Paris. His uniform as Captain-Colonel includes a ruff, plumes and silver coat with floral motifs.

The Count of Artois, the king’s brother, is depicted in his uniform as Colonel of the Artois-Dragons regiment. It is composed of a dark green coat with a straight collar, white buttons, a waistcoat and white breeches.

The Colonel’s uniform only differed in certain details from that of the officers, which consisted in tall white plumes bordered by red at the top, a red collar and silver epaulettes.

Chapter III: new fashions and freedom
The love of England that developed in the 1780s, in particular with the rise of the English-style landscaped garden, also influenced male fashion. The redingote (a French alteration of the English word riding-coat) was imported from England in 1725. It was long with small collars which could be turned up. At the end of the Enlightenment the redingote à la lévite also came into fashion, which had lapels that were separated from the collar and held down with buttons, as well as the lévite à l’anglaise.

The deputy is wearing a redingote à la lévite with three collars of different lengths and separate lapels, as well as a striped waistcoat.