The Luxury of a Himachali Handloom

The women of Kullu are loyal to their traditional form of dressing and wear what they weave.

Their garments are warm and reflect the typical identity of Himachal Pradesh with their patterning in well-selected colours and designs.

Most Kullu shawls are in variations of red with black, grey, combined with very bright coloured border patterns.

Weavers are adept at creating a variety of fine textures that add sophistication and contrast to the traditional rough textured plainly woven pieces.

A few weavers have experimented with bolder colours like mustard yellow in the main body of the shawl. The natural stripes give an added charm.

A mixture of two or more shades in the body add a rough, rustic visual touch to the soft merino wool fabrics.

Textured and patterned weaves in the main segment also add interest to the coloured borders.

In the image, rich tonal blue and black body of the shawl is enhanced with white streaks and fine coloured stripes to give additional verve to the otherwise plain body of the shawl.

A black Kullu shawl, subtly and unevenly flecked with white yarn, matches the drama against the vibrant geometric border patterns and colours.

The value of the Kullu handloom shawl increases with the quality and width of the borders and also when a number of ornamental borders are added.

Occasionally multi-coloured stripes at both ends are woven to complete the shawl.

This style is common to Kashmir handloom patterns and imitates their mountain neighbours.

This is a traditional Kinnauri design with its finely woven intricate motifs.

Weavers experiment with many variations in colours and designs to offer a larger range from which the customer can choose.

Most of the traditional shawls made for local use are woven with white bodies and coloured borders and end pieces. A white shawl is also often chosen as ornamental gifts for men to honour them on ceremonial occasions.

Smaller scarves and stoles are worn by both men and women customers in cities. Weavers keep adjusting sizes and colours according to the responses and demands of their wider markets.

A range of checks, stripes and plain colours in softer natural hues for mufflers and scarves, and running lengths in twill and small checks, are made for the handloom weaver’s male clientele.

Striped scarves in softer hues with edges left without tassles indicate they are made for men to wear.

Pale hued Kullu handloom scarves and shawls follow western demands.

Kullu women also weave narrow strips of patterned handloom on narrow looms while seated on the floor. These are stitched onto what are commonly known as Himachali topis or caps for men or serve as borders to attach to any form of dress.

Brown-toned twill weaves in handloom are luxury fabrics, the production of which is seldom noticed in the midst of machine-made alternatives.

Those who discover Kullu and such fabrics will find they are equally popular with locals and tourists.

Hand woven checked patterns in softer natural hues are often replicated on larger pieces to serve as a throw or a small blanket.

Larger checks in natural yarns are woven in Kullu with tailored overcoats in mind.

A handwoven woollen fabric from the looms of Kullu looks as if it could have been handwoven in Scotland in the 18th century.

Kullu and other hill regions in northern India are the few places left in the world still offering such textiles to the world.

Read more about Kullu shawls here:
- Weaving a Kullu shawl
- Taming the wool