Gender Equality in the Future of Farming

 “You are unfair”, Ms. Kazuko Ishigaki was told while travelling in England, and this comment became a catalyst for her to re-think her notions of equality. Kazuko was born in a farmhouse in Odate, Akita Prefecture, and is now president of the “Cheerful Mother’s Shop”, which boasts an annual sale of 200 million yen. As she thought more, many questions bothered her– is hiding behind a husband the same as giving up responsibility? Where can women do more to help the community? And what is the importance of the home-made meal? These questions can have great import for the future of agriculture in Japan. 

Rural scenery of Odate (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Making Kiritanpo (Mashed Rice Stick) (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Rural scenery of Odate (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

“Why is it pity being a farmer’s wife?” 

Among economically developed countries, Japan is notable for having large discrepancies between male and female roles in society. Although circumstances are still in the process of changing, it is said that the old-fashioned concept that “men work outside, and women protect the house” becomes stronger the further you go into rural areas. Kazuko points out that this trend can be even more obvious in the field of agriculture, where farmers tend to work with their families.  “I got married to a farmer, and I worked with his family all the time, but there was no salary. If there was something I wanted to buy, I would consult with my parents-in-law to obtain the money. Even though it was how they used to do it and they are not bad people at all, I didn’t feel great about it, as I felt I was treated like a child and people didn’t acknowledge my efforts. I liked the farming itself, as my family were also farmers. So I was helping my family’s farming from a very young age, and loved the idea of working together as a family, although it was sometimes harder than what the old TV drama ‘Oshin’ used to suggest. But it was true that I also started to question spending my entire life just between the house and the fields.”

Kazuko Ishigaki-San, a representative of Cheerful Mother’s Shop (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

During this time, she set up an organisation with the wives of the local farmers, but it was actually 12 years after the founding that her mind finally dramatically changed:  "With the support of the local administration, I was given the opportunity to study abroad as a female agronomist, in 1995. During that training, I spent time in England and was shocked to be told "you are unfair". The person in question said that women were just depending on men and aren’t taking the same responsibility as their husbands. I was also told that partnership should be about complementing and enhancing each other’s skills. I thought of many more ways I could be of use to the community.  Immediately after returning home, though, I was stopped by a stranger and told ‘the farmer's wife must have many hardships and difficulties’. I remember it so well even now. Do we have such a poor existence that strangers need to be sympathetic to us? I didn’t think we did".

Cheerful Mother’s Shop, Fresh Eggs Lined Up in the Shop (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Times women should not give up easily  

"The cheerful mother's shop", which Kazuko represents, is now working on a variety of business and commercial projects in addition to running the main grocery shop; such as crafting and selling obento, lunch box meals, other original products, and managing classes for those who want to try their hand at traditional cooking. How did she and her co-workers end up reaching the current annual sales of 200 million yen? Ms. Ishigaki laughs brightly and says- "every first step is hard, isn’t it?" "In 2000, our group of 100 female farmers went to the local administration to submit a petition for the establishment of a grocery sales office, but it was rejected. I was very upset. But if we simply gave up, we knew that nothing would improve for the next generation of farming women. So we decided to establish this company by investing our own money, in 2001. At that time, people in the local area were still unaware of consumer food standards. I came to realise a lot of things when I was out of our home prefecture attending large food exhibitions, such as what we are good at and what we should do more of”.

Cheerful Mother’s Shop, Fresh Vegetables Lined Up in the Shop (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Cheerful Mother’s Shop, Original Dressing (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Cheerful Mother’s Shop, Staff Members (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Cheerful Mother's Shop (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Ishigaki-San (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

For example, local farmers thought that consumers prefer beautiful products at the time so they used to use artificial colouring. But Ms. Ishigaki realised it’s not only that it should not be used, but that artificial colouring was becoming a positive obstacle to sales. She and other members exchanged views and observations at the monthly meeting, and she also found that you need to have stories to tell to the customers. "I’m aware of how important it is for our shop to have dedicated customers, especially as farming is very unpredictable business, where nature always has a say. I know there are people who will kindly wait for us even if the harvest is a bit delayed due to the weather. People can substitute products, but products cannot substitute people. We treat the connection with people very diligently”. 

Certificate When the Length of Kiritanpo (Mashed Rice Stick) was Certified as a Guinness World Record in 2018 (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Food can create connections

Kazuko’s home, Akita Prefecture, is proud of its 192% food self-sufficiency rate, the biggest in the whole country. Still, young people seem to consume ready-made or instant food more and more. She started providing food ingredients for Odate city’s school lunches in 2003, hoping that "people would grow up with the local taste”. Her team tried to fuse both traditions and the current trends of what is popular amongst the children. She chose to make the most of traditions, instead of being captured by tradition. "The taste of home" or "the taste of mother" is an abstract and intangible concept, but at the same time a very real thing. "I would like to tell that now is the time to choose a profession according to how you want to live”, she smiles. “Paying a decent salary can make agriculture a profession, not just a family business. If it’s not paid properly, it would be so hard for new people to step into the agriculture and we cannot find our successors. I like farming myself as I can design my time schedule. I’m glad I’m a farmer. I think what you enjoy describes what kind of person you are. It would be great if those joys nourish your life”. 

Ishigaki-San (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

And finally, what does food really mean to her? She pauses for a little and answered softly.  “It’s about connecting. It’s connecting our lives to future generations, and also connecting our hearts”.  Food connects the past and the future, cities and regions, people and land. And food can also connect people with people. Her soft Akita dialect gives me a feeling of connection as she bids me good-bye, saying "it’s always beautiful here, so come again".

Kazuko Ishigaki-San, a representative of Cheerful Mother’s Shop, Grilling Kiritanpo (Mashed Rice Stick) (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Tonburi (Field Caviar) Cuisine (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Tashiro-dake (2019)Original Source: Akita Tourism Guide

Credits: Story

Cooperation with
Cheerful mother shop
Akita Inu Tourism General Incorporated Association
SAVOR JAPAN


Photos:Misa Nakagaki
Text: Makiko Oji
Edit: Saori Hayashida
Production: Skyrocket Corporation

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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