Mon Pa Weaves in Arunachal Pradesh

A look at the Mon Pa community living in Dirung, Arunachal Pradesh and their unique textiles

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Arunachal Weaving: Thembang, Arunachal Pradesh (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The natural environment

The Mon Pa belong to the Indo-Burman ethnic group and follow Mahayana Buddhist practices. Because of their earlier practices of attributing divinity to the biosphere, they were considered ‘animist’ by western academics, however, while their forms of prayers now involve monasteries, prayer flags, prayer beads and other such familiar attributes, their deep respect for nature and animals is always evident.

Arunachal Weaving: Dirang river at Dirang (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

This is particularly important in regions of great natural richness and fecundity comprising of heavily forested mountains, rivers, streams and waterfalls, a large number of birds and animals like the snow leopard, red bear, yak, and a highly indigenous, nutritious diet based almost entirely on organically grown local produce.

Dirang is a very small town, or what could be called a large village, through which runs the Kameng River.

A monastery and a Dzong, an old fort, overlook the river and anchor the few hundred houses with a strong personality and presence.

The Kameng River runs through Dirang in West Kameng District, Arunachal Pradesh, with lushly forested hills on one bank and paddy fields and kiwi fruit plantations on the other.

Arunachal Weaving: View of Dirang town (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The elaborately built Norphel Retreat designed in the Buddhist style, looks onto the Kameng River, with the Dirang Dzong and old monastery in the distance.

Arunachal Weaving: Thembang, Arunachal Pradesh (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Tibeto-Burmese Mon Pa tribe live in Thembang Village, 14 kms from Dirang.

Tibetan flags, stupas and mantras are inscribed on stone walls and artwork of auspicious symbols on the way, heralding its proximity.

Arunachal Weaving: Homestay at Thembang Village (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The heritage of Dirang Valley

Not far from Dirang is the heritage village of Thembang Dzong which is significant for its old fort made of stone and wood, demonstrating building techniques dating back to 1100 CE. The entire tiny village is considered of great heritage value.

Arunachal Weaving: Ancient fort at Thembang Village (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The ancient Thembang Dzong, or fort, is said to have been built in 1110 CE.

Traditional building techniques used in the fort are a part of its immense heritage value.

Arunachal Weaving: Mountains across from Thembang Village (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Thembang Dzong, or fort, overlooks the Dirang Valley, lush mountains with exotic vegetation.

Arunachal Weaving: Homestay at Thembang Village (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The old Mon Pa home built in traditional style serves as a popular homestay for travelers looking for a true heritage getaway.

Arunachal Weaving: Building at Thembang Village (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Traditional Mon Pa architecture consists of stone masonry, sun-baked mud brick, lime wash and carved wooden features.

Arunachal Weaving: Village organizer at Thembang Village (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Pema Wange is the senior project officer of the World Wildlife Foundation, but more importantly he is the accepted community leader who puts Thambang Dzong on the map.

He communicates with the world telling everyone about the heritage of the place and its unique tangible and intangible features like their trade dealings with yak herdsmen, livelihoods as porters for trekkers along the dangerous Bailey Trail and running home-stays.

Arunachal Weaving: Detail of Mon Pa Clothing (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Petang lives in the village of Thembang and associates closely with all the activities of the community. She usually wears a simple sarong and blouse but dresses in traditional clothes on festive occasions.

A bit shy to serve as a model at first, she soon slipped into her role with ease, standing at the doorway of the homestay.

Arunachal Weaving: Girl weaving on backstrap loom (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Weaving at Homes

Around 50 households live here in an area a little over 3 acres. Large prayer flags printed with figures and script, mantras carved onto stone walls and the continuance of wearing traditional clothes for festivals reestablishes it as very special place. Dirang's architecture, lifestyles, old practices involve a unique form of community management. They claim that the land from the river below to the politically-indicated border at the McMahon Line is under their control and jurisdiction. Their food is based on locally grown vegetables, fish, and meat, butter and cheese from the yak.

Arunachal Weaving: Loom and textiles at Thembang Village (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

An upright frame that goes with back strap weaving is lodged in Pema Wange’s home. On display is a small woolen floor rug for winter days.

Arunachal Weaving: Dyed yarn at Dirang (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

In the Dirang Valley an entrepreneur trains young women to weave fabrics exclusively required for the Mon Pa community.

Arunachal Weaving: Threads for warping (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The warp threads of the yarn are stretched onto the frame and then taken outside to be woven by women using the back strap method.

Arunachal Weaving: Girl weaving on backstrap loom (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Mon Pa community treasure their traditional clothing, hence a small but dedicated production and marketing unit in the main village of Dirang serves their needs.

Arunachal Weaving: Warp yarn on frame (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The sarong is called a shingka and involves a distinct pattern of stripes and decorative strips that serve as a signature of the tribe’s identity.

Arunachal Weaving: Detail of Mon Pa textile (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Mon Pa Weaves

The Mon Pa community treasure their traditional clothing, and hence the specially defined and distinct textile needs for clothing and covering are fulfilled by women weaving in their homes and also by newly trained women weavers, at a small but dedicated production and marketing unit in the main village of Dirang.

Arunachal Weaving: Detail of pattern on Mon Pa textile (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

In most tribal societies, the decorative stripe signifies the particular tribe - and sometimes even the status of the wearer in the tribe.

Arunachal Weaving: Detail of a hand woven textile of Mon Pa tribe (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Hand-spun, hand-dyed deep red yarn is the main colour of the Mon Pa dress.

Arunachal Weaving: Detail of a hand woven textile of Mon Pa tribe (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

When worn, the handwoven shingka displays all sections of its varied patterning.

Arunachal Weaving: Old and new Mon Pa textile (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The distinctively patterned highly decorative fabric is woven to be tailored into a jacket called a todung.

The piece on the left is an old one in which the yarn is dyed with natural colours. Industrial dyes are now used to almost the same effect at lesser cost and effort. The motifs of the old piece are also finer.

Arunachal Weaving: Detail of Mon Pa textile (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The cloth to make the Todung with animal motifs on it is called the Semchen Zuk Chola and is more expensive than the pieces with simpler motifs.

Horses, yak, the sun, mountains, riders, are some of the motifs that are part of its signature.

Arunachal Weaving: Marketing Mon Pa textiles in Dirang (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A young entrepreneur of the community in Dirang who is associated with a family dedicated to developing the area for tourists and business opportunities, shows visitors the different varieties of Mon pa fabrics he has for sale.

Arunachal Weaving: Environment (2019-07-13)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Read more about Arunachal weaving here:
- Environment
- Weaving Process

People & Products
Credits: Story

Text: Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Subinoy Das, Jaya Jaitly
Artisans: Srimati Aajuke, Musu Umbrey, Kuami Panggeng, Opek Ering
Ground Facilitation: Ankit Kumar
Documentary Video: Subinoy Das
Curation: Ruchira Verma

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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