The World of Kotpad Weavers

A look at the weaving community who engage in Kotpad textiles in Odisha, India.

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kotpad village

Kotpad, the name of a small weaving village in Odisha,  identifies the unique fabric known for its rich vegetable dyed reds, browns, and blacks with motifs that come from another way of life.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The tribal population of India mostly live near large areas of forest land from where they have access to many kinds of forest produce needed to sustain their livelihoods.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The weaving families live as a closed community where the walls on either side of a house touch the next one.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The community pond in the vicinity serves as the only water body where the weavers community wash their fabric after the dyeing process is over.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Kotpad Weaver's Co-operative Society Office.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Lord Jagannath, whose temple is situated in the town of Puri, is the most popular and revered deity of Odisha. His image looms over the lives of many.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Weavers homes

Kotpad cottons are woven in the tribal regions of southern Odisha and Chhattisgarh, by the Mirgan community. In the Kotpad area, weavers use the name Panika. The relative isolation of the tribal communities kept the craft of textile dyeing and weaving in Kotpad true to its traditional moorings.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The weavers' houses have wooden frames with thatched roofs and earthen flooring, which has been smoothened by hand with a layer of cow dung.

Kotpad: Weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Every weaver’s house has a long corridor area to keep the assembled pit looms.

They only work in natural light that comes in through the small windows and doorways.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

They seldom use electric lighting for their work.

Kotpad: Community and People (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The weaver and his family inside their home with a finished Kotpad sari.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The inside of a tribal home in Kotpad. Most families occupy two or three small rooms in which they live and work.

All the belongings needed for their daily use are stacked on shelves or hung on the walls of their homes.

Kotpad: Community and People (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The environment around artisan communities is cohesive with many assisting in the work of others.

Ganesha is a weaver who suffered a leg injury which prevented him from weaving.

He took to crafting small images out of risk husk and threads. His neighbours support and encourage him in his marketing efforts.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kotpad textiles have provided continuity to their tribal origins by way of both materials and technique.

Kotpad: Community and People (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The weavers in front of their house, displaying a finished Kotpad textile that can be used as a stole or dupatta.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A Kotpad shawl hangs with rest of the textiles, most likely outside a weaver's home.

Kotpad: Community and People (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Indigenous architecture is helpful in hanging yarn for drying.

Kotpad: Community and People (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The community and its spaces

Kotpad textiles have remained true to their tribal origins by way of both materials and technique. While they still cater to a traditional market, this traditional way of life has begun to change. However, their very simplicity and sophistication has made these weaves highly sought after by a new urban customer: the discerning textile aficionado committed to a natural way of production and consumption. In this picture you see locals gathered to watch a cockfight. 

Kotpad: Community and People (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Spiritually and devotion define their craft work as service to God and society.

The proximity of temples and the need to routinely pay obeisance is an integral part of the lives of most weavers.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Durga Puja coincides with the harvest season, when spring cleaning and sprucing up homes, temples and other community spaces take place.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

This is the water resource for irrigation.

Those who cannot go to distant areas, buy their roots, herbs, spices and other such organic materials from tribes who travel regularly for distances of as far as 200 kilometers to collect these materials for sale.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Fish is an important part of the diet. Large fishing nets are seen along the river.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

As the river is the main resource of water for irrigation, there are agricultral fields along the water body.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A community gathering for some local entertainment.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Clothes hanging for drying in a community house.

Kotpad: Community and People (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The relative isolation of the tribal communities kept the craft of textile dyeing and weaving in Kotpad true to its traditional moorings.

Seen here, is a community woman holding leaves of the "aal" tree.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Tribal communities like to paint the walls of their homes. These are usually done with organic colours procured and made from forests produce.

The images here are simple geometrically drawn shapes common to many tribal groups. People, hores, elephants, the sun and the moon are recurring motifs.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Paintings depict the multiple activities that take place in the daily lives of the tribal community.

Kotpad: Community and Environment (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kotpad weaves began to get exposure to a wider market only in the 1980s, because of the renewed interest in traditional textiles, supported by initiatives of the Odisha government.

Kotpad: Community and People (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Bangles are a very popular ornament in the lives of most women in India. While silver and gold are important to some, the glass bangle seller never fails to draw customers in a small village community.

Kotpad: Weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Read more about Kotpad textiles here:

- Dyeing Process
- Weaving Process

Range of Motifs
Credits: Story

Text: Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisans: Gobardhan Panika and the community
Ground Facilitator: Ankit Kumar
Curation: Aradhana Nagpal

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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