3rd honor designer of Seoul Fashion Week
On the other hand, this exhibition was held with photographers who have their own sensitivity and philosophy such as Koo Bohn-Chang, Han Hong-il, Lee Gun-ho, Zo Sun-Hee, Ogh Sang -Sun, Hong Jang- Hyun, Kim Je- Won,Mok Jung-Wook, Suk-Jun, Cho Gi-Seok.
Sometimes full of energy, like a parachute of a pilot who is just about to fly, sometimes like a piece of mandala in the Nepal monk's palace, sometimes like a fateful woman I met in a traditional Moroccan market. The world of 10 photographers inspired by Rubina's clothes unfolds another story from the exhibition.
Rubina loves clothes.
It is now 38 years since I began my first project as a fation designer, nervous and excited. Looking back, each day seemed new, like traveling to an unfamiliar place. To make clothes I traveled around, and as I traveled I repeatedly made new clothes like no other that existed on this earth.
In the traditional markets of foreign countries I like to bend an ear to the stories left behind in an antiques shop and remember that time, the colors and the textures. These experiences are reflected in Rubina crations, used as themes for my collections. The attraction of travel, which lies in the encounter with the unfamiliar, seeing, enjoying and feeling new things, is much like the attraction of fashion, which lies in bringing new things together to create beauty. Travel and fashion are indeed very much alike, at times clean and pure, at other times like a strong afterimage, and even in the way that they bestow meaningful gifts.
One by one, I now intend to take out my memories of travel, which has been a friend constantly at my side and given birth to the clothes created by Rubina.
I invite all of you on this ENDLESS JOURNEY under the lead of Rubina’s creations.
For a garment to have a structural silhouette when worn by a model the pattern has to be three-dimensional. To properly put down the picture that I see in my head, I draw sketches, make a pattern with cotton cloth, do more sketches, then cut the final pattern. This process has to be repeated over and over again. Only when the garment that I wanted is finally produced do I feel at peace.
The list of good things about a knitted garment is endless. It's simple but luxurious with an elegant line. It naturally reveals the shape of the body without special tailoring devices such as the use of darts. It doesn't crease so it's wonderful for traveling. Above all, the greatest advantage is the ability to express varied colors and textures by connecting threads together. Connection, communication ... These are the words that come to mind.
In the 1980s, there were few places that made the kind of knitted fabric that I wanted. Out of frustration, in 1984 I set up my own factory. Even today, when I step inside the factory, I feel as if I could meet the younger version of myself, who was thoughtless perhaps but also courageous back in the 1980s.
I love dyeing. The results are unpredictable. I love that element of chance. But thanks to this work, my fingernails always have all sorts of pigments stuck underneath them. Some people will think they're just dirty, but to me they're beautiful and something to be proud of. I am a designer after all.
I have often wondered what I would have been in my former life. Considering that I like travelling and clothes, I'm sure I must have been a gypsy. On my travels, I have deliberately set out to meet the gypsies of Europe and Asia. Their clothes are inevitably old and worn, with loose threads here and there. Though they appear to dress carelessly, none of the gypsies were seen wearing the same clothes. They care nothing about what other people think and dress for comfort, expressing their own individuality.
The military look and the sports look were in fashion in the 1990s. By combining these two themes I wanted to make more energetic creations. Nothing is filled with a more beautiful energy than the human body. So I placed a parachute inside a garment that reveals the lines of the body, in a way that the parachute would spread when the zipper was pulled down. I decorated the parachute with cloud motifs from ancient Goguryeo tomb murals, making it look as if it would fly up into the sky at any moment. It was a playful idea, but being a designer means dreaming and using your imagination.
But of all the wonderful scenes that I saw, those that really stayed in my mind were a lone tree that had put its roots down in hard earth with not a blade of grass in sight and the clothes of the women of the native African tribes. From a distance, the tree looked like a white bird gazing at the sky. Up close it was a curious combination of all colors, from dark brown to grey, a color that couldn't be named. We've always called this "wood color" without really thinking about it.
After seeing the Buddhist temples, monastic robes and funeral services in Nepal I was fascinated by the way the color red was used to pray for the purity of the soul and by the mandalas, which contain the truth of the universe. Although I am a Christian, religious and cultural differences meant little with the people of Nepal, who live without greed in a beautiful natural environment. Everything in Nepal seemed transparent and endearing, so that even the wooden gate of a village house covered in peeling blue paint looked kindly and benign.
Of the 55 minority tribes in China, the Miao hill tribes are famous for the rich, bright colors of their traditional costume. Some call them the 'gypsies of the East.' They are skilled at dyeing, embroidery, and silverwork, and with just one look at the clothing and hair accessories of the women I knew they were exceptional.
I once spent the night in a place near Ephesus, Turkey, where ancient Greek and Roman ruins can be seen. Tables and chairs covered in white lace, waitresses wearing white lace dresses. Faraway the mountaintop is already dark and above it a big star shines. It seemed to be a different time to the rest of the earth.
In the past, people talked about making clothes as 'forming' clothes. We may use high-tech materials today thanks to scientific development, but regardless of past or present the act of making clothes requires the dreams and devotion of the maker. Of course, I chose this path in life because I liked making clothes so much, and it is always an enjoyable process.
Photographer: Koo Bonchang, Han Hongil, Lee Gunho, Jo Seonhui, Uh Sangsun, Hong Janghyun, Kim Jaewon, Mok Jeonguk, Kim Seokjun, Jo Giseok
Director : Seo Young-hee
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