Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Designing and cutting
The process of production at Purkal Stree Shakti, Samiti, based in a Purkal village near Dehradun in Uttarakhand is perhaps the most impressive part of their craft program to empower women.The entire chain of production is a well-planned effort. After the training period, women are ready to take up important orders. Designers who consist of both permanent staff or temporary interns work with them to plan the design layout of each item and infuse new ideas regularly.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Stri Shakti's designer Shikha plans the basic designs to be filled with patchwork and running stitches.
She works closely with the embroiderers to finalize what would work best
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The stages of production are meticulously noted so that materials, designs, embroiderers and products and seamlessly accounted for.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Patterns are worked out and first cut on paper before they are cut on cloth.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The pieces are traced onto cloth and cut.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A mood board modernizes their approach to design.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Colourways and design layouts are systematically laid out and explained so that production is well-coordinated.
Putting Patchwork Pieces Together
Each movement of the cloth from one table to another is documented so that responsibilities and work times are recorded. A number of innovative designs are created as craft work has the singular ability to change itself constantly unlike machines sand object created by moulds. One highly developed skill can be applied to multiple ideas and items for all kinds of uses. Patchwork designs follow freehand designing and also follow universal quilt making practices which use symmetry and geometry to plan a layout.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The development of paper patterns to cloth patterns and the placement of imagery are in a well-planned sequence.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Each embroiderer knows how to cut patterns and place the patchwork designs according to designated colorways.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
At first, the patchwork figure is roughly secured on to the base cloth and then stitched down carefully.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Some decorative accessories are added to enhance the fun and sparkle of festive products.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Paper patterns are carefully preserved, documented and stored for repeat orders.
Stitching the Patches Together
The working environment in the friendly spaces is informal and comfortable. They may sit in rooms and work from tables or on the floor in groups under the trees. Infants sleep on their laps, and the elder children are educated and provided snacks and meals. This leads to a stress free working group. As the women learned their skill and saw the results of their success, they also became aware of how well their lifestyles had improved, and that they now have both greater respect and freedom in their homes. This makes them highly diligent and productive as a group.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The high quality of stitching is the special USP of Stree Shakti patchwork products.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The work atmosphere at Stri Shakti is relaxed and informal.
Girls can eat lunch or work depending on their convenience but they meticulously ensure that the work gets done.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Girls work either alone, or in groups but without regimentation.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Multiple pieces are made for specially commissioned orders.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Embroidery is a natural leisure occupation for many rural women in India.
The transition to organized work is fairly simple for women like Seema, Babita, and Manisha.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Rupa puts finishing touches to a patchwork quilt for a child.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Babita works on a sewing machine which enables specialized stitches to be executed.
Some portions of the workplace are more organized with rows of sewing machines placed on tables.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
In some areas of the workplace at Stree Shakti, women prefer to work on their sewing machines while seated on the floor.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Meena completes a quilt designed for a child.
Patchwork: Process (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Group discussions are a part of a day’s work.
Women at Stri Shakti have learned all stages of systematized production and realize the importance of a well-organised structure.
Patchwork: Product (2019-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about patchwork craft of Purkal here:
-The Community of Patchwork Artisans
-Products
Text: Jaya Jaitly and Charu Verma
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri, Charu Verma
Artisans: Purkal Stree Shakti
Ground Facilitator: Charu Verma
Documentary Video: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Curation: Ruchira Verma
