Extravagant Objects

In the 19th century, jewelers such as Peter Carl Fabergé continued to develop innovative techniques to decorate these objects, drawing inspiration from the natural world and the whimsies of courtly life. Then in the 20th century, artists including American jeweler David Webb, who was inspired by the artistic traditions of the earlier centuries, used precious materials in unusual ways to create extravagant objects for a modern clientele.

The bottom of the pipe tamper also doubles as a seal.

This small storage case, or étui, was intended to hold a variety of items that could include scissors, thimbles, bodkins, needles, or even grooming accessories. Compact and portable, such cases offered a convenient and fashionable way for individuals to carry personal items in a pocket or hung from a chatelaine belt. In the 18th century, porcelain factories were very inventive in designing étuis, and the precious small cases appeared variously as figures, vegetables, flower posies, columns, and even humorous subjects such as a woman’s leg. This particular shape, which was popular in items made for both men and women, can also be found as a pipe stopper and a perfume vinaigrette.

Meant only for the eyes of its owner, a risqué love scene is hidden within the interior lid of the étui.

Johannes Zehngraf was a well-known Danish miniaturist whose portraits were commissioned by European aristocrats and royalty. Known for his impressive photorealistic paintings, he worked with some of the most significant craftsmen of his age, including Peter Carl Fabergé. Zehngraf painted the miniatures for the famous “Lily of the Valley” Fabergé egg. This miniature is set in an elaborate jeweled frame made of exotic nephrite, the artist’s preferred hardstone. In the portrait, Zehngraf depicts King Carol I of Romania in full military regalia.

The workshop of Peter Carl Fabergé produced articles of both fancy and utility. Made of precious materials, they emphasized craftsmanship rather than mere display.

With his legendary Workmasters, Peter Carl Fabergé created a completely new collection of elegant functional objects such as this gum pot, or stamp moistener, as well as clocks, walking sticks, perfume bottles, and lorgnettes (glasses on handles).

For those who could afford it, manufacturers created lavish versions of dance cards made of materials such as silver, ivory, mother-of-pearl, or gold and set with precious gems.

In the 18th century, games were played at all levels of society and served as a way of advertising a healthy surplus of disposable income. Among aristocrats, gaming was an indication of status, rank, wealth, and class. Card playing was a necessary accomplishment for those hoping to take their place in polite society. People used gaming counters, or gaming tokens, over and over again for a wide range of games. Counter boxes would have been a luxurious and fashionable accessory for a card player of either sex.

David Webb's use of a real seashell, a popular midcentury form, manages to be a vivid expression of 1960s style.

Throughout history, the pearl has been one of the most highly prized and sought-after gems. During the 19th century, the baroque pearl, with its irregular shape, figured prominently in designs made in the opulent Renaissance Revival style.

In the 19th century, jewelers created fantastic pieces that featured baroque pearls and were additionally embellished with enamel in historic techniques.

Fascination with the baroque pearl continued into the 20th century. Modern jewelers such as David Webb, who took inspiration from historic metalworkers, combined the pearl with enamel and colored stones to create bold designs. The frog was one of Webb’s most popular animal motifs.

In the mid-1930s, Hollywood was the glamour capital of the world, and star sapphires took center stage as the jewel of choice for the most celebrated royalty of the silver screen. Large, opulent cabochons, or rounded stones, designed in the geometric Art Deco style, adorned countless film legends, such as Joan Crawford and Carole Lombard. This star sapphire bracelet was made by the firm of Oscar Heyman & Brothers, famous for its innovative jewelry design and master craftsmanship.

As a young man, designer Oscar Heyman apprenticed in Russia, where he produced works for the renowned House of Fabergé. After moving to America in 1909, he went to work for Pierre Cartier. Heyman would then establish his own firm in 1912. Known as the jeweler’s jeweler, Oscar Heyman & Brothers created masterpieces that were retailed by high-end establishments, including Cartier and Tiffany & Co. This magnificent 216-carat bracelet is believed to have been created for the firm of Udall & Ballou and shown at the 1939 New York World’s Fair.

Snuff boxes carved from a single stone, with the rims mounted in silver or gold, were especially common on the European continent in the 18th century.

Designers in the 20th century continued the tradition of embellishing their boxes with precious jewels and stones.

Acclaimed society jeweler David Webb had no formal training in his chosen craft. Born in North Carolina in 1925, by age 11 he was designing for his uncle’s workshop. Webb’s subsequent, swift rise in the jewelry world was attributed to his bold use of color and dimension, and his meticulous attention to detail. As seen in Rienzi’s dazzling “Figure of a Leopard,” the big jungle cats he created were justifiably deemed a success. In these, Webb, like many designers of the 1960s, was admittedly looking to older styles, in particular the French Art Deco designs of Cartier. The work of Jeanne Toussaint, the creator of Cartier’s signature “Panthère” in the 1920s, was a great influence on Webb, who once called her “the inspiration of us all.”

In the 20th century, artists and jewelers continued to use ivory to create sculptures both functional and unique.

This elaborate rhinoceros, mounted with turquoise and sapphires, is also a clock.

In this fantastical creation, a fish carved out of opal is ensnared in gold seaweed, mounted atop emerald encrusted coral.

An imaginative creation in itself, this beautiful turquoise brooch is set among gems and pearls.

Designer J. Weisager went one step further and provided this brooch with its very own pagoda, making the end result both functional and sculptural.