THE AUTHENTICS –eternal source of creativity–

Japan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation

Exploring the design roots of western clothing from "Authentics" vintage pieces

Installation view, The Authentics –eternal source of creativity–'exhibition
Japan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation held an exhibition called “THE AUTHENTICS”. The exhibition presented carefully selected 'Authentics' vintage pieces from its collection. Western fashion were indeed very much inspired by these pieces. This emblem was embroidered on the breast pocket of a school blazer that was worn as school uniforms and uniforms of sports teams in the 1920s.

It’s very important to understand “Authentics” when you learn fashion. International educational institutions in fashion provide “classic fashion” courses to their students at the very beginning.
In addition, people with the aim of becoming a designer learn the purpose and essence of design, and the ability to identify composition of design through deeply engaging with the masterpiece of famous designers. Through experiencing these processes, they come to create a new design by acknowledging the essence and routes of design while adding their unique way of expression.

The exhibition was divided into 5 categories based on royal and aristocratic lifestyle. The clothes are regarded as the origin of design of Western wear.
Those 5 categories are:
“Military Uniform -Military-”, “Uniform -Uniform-”, “Sportswear -Sports- ”, “Workwear -Work-”, “Ethnic costumes - Ethnic -”

Installation of some styling of Military category
People start applying military items in “street fashion” from late 1960s. As the Vietnam war intensified, hippie movement had occurred. In order to appeal the anti-war, the youth was purposely wearing the field jacket or cargo pants which conjures images of war. Also, the jacket and pants with camouflage pattern was being published in some famous fashion magazines such as “Elle” (June, 1971) and “Vogue US ver” (August, 1971), which increased the military as important fashion images.

French army fiald parka vintage of 1967

British Army military jacket vintage of 1940

Field jacket & gurkha shorts vintage

US air force flyers light weight jacket vintage of 1990

Installation of some styling of Uniform category
The history of uniform began in the 17th century when European Military started calling their clothes as uniform. Until then, each soldier fought in different clothes. Some protestant countries such as Sweden started to use uniform. Each country reflected the country’s symbolic colors; for instance scarlet from England; Prussian Blue from Prussia; White from Austrian Habsburg; and Tsar Green from Russia. During Victorian era in the 19th century, as a part of “gentleman education” at public schools and colleges in England, people started to play sports such as football and cricket. They wore caps, neckties and jackets as uniform which accorded to school colors.

Jean Patou short blazer vintage

McGILL University school blazer vintage.
School blazers are used for uniforms and uniforms of sports teams. Metal buttons, 3 patch pockets, breast pockets are characterized by embroidered patch embroidered patchworks. This blazer is a school blazer of McGill University of Canada's highest graduate school.

British navy great coat vintage.
This is a thick long coat. The initial model coat features a shoulder strap, brass 6 buttons. As an outerwear with high cold weather for winter, it is adopted by each country's army. Considering cold weather, this coat has a wool lining.

T.M.Lewin & Sons school blazer vintage of 1960's.
School blazers are used for uniforms and uniforms of sports teams. Metal buttons, 3 patch pockets, breast pockets are characterized by embroidered patch embroidered patchworks. This blazer is a British brand that made it as a roots

Installation of saome styling of sports category
Until the 19th century, sport had mainly been used as training for war, and riding/hunting as a means of socializing within the upper class. However, in the 1880's, sport became a popular recreation among the working class due to the coming into fashion of bicycles. Males played sports wearing tailored jackets and trousers, whereas females wore trendy silhouette dresses while cycling, playing tennis/golf/cricket, and even while bathing in the sea, etc. Before long, sportswear allowing more movement appeared, such as bloomers, knickerbockers, polo shirts, and sneakers, etc. In the 1920s, sportswear made of jersey fabric was launched by haute couture designers such as Jean Patou and Elsa Schiaparelli. From the 1950s onwards, sportswear has continuously been adopted in youth fashion.

Sportswear -Sports-
American-made mesh game shirt vintage

Sportswear -Sports-
Skiwear vintage made in Europe in the 1970s

Sportswear -Sports-
McGREGOR of drizzler jacket vintage made in the United States in the 1960s-1970s

Sportswear -Sports-
SIMAC of quilting jacket vintage made in Italy

Installation of some styling work category
Unlike Europe, where moleskin work jackets and tailored jackets became workwear, numerous workwear appeared in the United States such as jeans, bib overalls, painter pants, and coverall, etc. They were made of materials such as denim, hickory, and chambray. However, high fashion had avoided them. In 1969, Yves Saint Laurent released a denim coat. It caused a great sensation, with both fans and critics. However, no other designers followed suit. In the late 1970s, denim was accepted as a fashion material, and a new designer jeans genre appeared.

Workwear -Work-
BAMFORD & SONS of field jacket vintage made in England

Workwear -Work-
PENDLETON Field jacket vintage of 1960's-1980's
PENDLETON founded its own spinning factory in Pendleton, Ore. 1909, and started production of trading blanket for native American. Then started women and men's apparel. The shape and silhouette of the collar of this jacket are probably those of the 1970s. The side pocket also has a hand warmer pocket.

Workwear -Work-
Styling with the theme of working wear by CHANEL of knit jacket vintage.made in Italia.

Workwear -Work-
Hunting jacket vintage

Installation of some styling of ethnic category
Europe's fashion has frequently been inspired by non-European cultures, such as Oriental. Two typical cases are Chinoiserie from China in the late 18th century, and Japonism from Japan in the late 19th century. Some of the most influential haute couture designers in the early 20th century, such as Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet, also conceived many ideas from non-European cultures. On the streets, the young people of the hippie movement in the late 1960s embraced non-European cultures such as Zen. Into the 1970's, an ethnic folklore fashion captured the attention of young people. As the center of Paris fashion shifted to prêt-à-porter, such designers also conceived many ideas from non-European cultures.

Ethnic costumes - Ethnic -
British army military shirt vintage of 1940's

Ethnic costumes - Ethnic -
Yves Saint Laurent print dress vintage of 1970's

Ethnic costumes - Ethnic -
Yves Saint Laurent print skirt vintage of 1970's

Ethnic costumes - Ethnic -
Mouton coat vintage

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