Contemporary Khadi Breaks New Ground

Learn more about the reinvention of khadi as a fabric

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Hand spun (on Ambar Charka) hand woven coloured cotton fabric (2018-06-01)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Khadi for modern times

Over the years, small forms of mechanization came into the khadi sector. The New Modern Charkha, otherwise known as the Ambar Charkha is semi-mechanized, adapted for long staple cotton and producing a more even-textured yarn. True khadi textile lovers yearn for the original entirely hand spun fabric that is soft, comfortable in all climates and imbued with the values of the freedom movement.

Retail outlet for khadi (2018) by Vashadhara Weavers Producer Company Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Vamshadhara Weavers Producer Company Ltd is collectively owned and run by the weavers of Srikakulam district.

They market under the brand name of Chitrika which is a not for profit agency managed by social workers.

Their colours designs which have moved away from the original styles, have popularized khadi from this area once again.

Board members and Staff at the shop by Vamshadhara Weavers Co-operative Producer Co. Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Weavers are managers, accountants and salesmen in their small sales outlet in Deveravalasa village.

The wide variety of colours and designs in saris, stoles and running fabric make it a treat for a visitor.

During the bazaar season, the co-operative society markets its khadi textiles at rented stall in craft fairs in different cities. They are selling online too.

Multi coloured fabric and yarn on shelves by Vamshadhara Weavers Co-operative Producer Co. Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Ponduru store stocks coloured yarn for the weavers, dress fabric, sarees, dupattas and stoles in a variety of colours, dyed both in chemically and natural colours.

Traditional Kuppadam (three shuttle) weave with temple border saree by Vamshadhara Weavers Co-operative Producer Co. Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

In a finer count of Kerala Superfine khadi yarn for the warp, and hand spun khadi for the weft, the sari sold under the ‘Chitrika’ brand name by the weaver’s co-operative replicates the simplicity of old khadi patterns consisting of a contrast border and a small spiked ’temple’ border embellishment

Traditional "Poonam" Kuppadam with double border in silk saree by Vamshadhara Weavers Co-operative Producer Co. Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Another Chitrika brand khadi sari adds another coloured strip to the border and ‘temple’ spikes akin to the ornate Kanjeevaram saris of Tamil Nadu.

"Aku-Remma" - "Leaf and branchlet" Jamdani Saree by Vamshadhara Weavers Co-operative Producer Co. Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Chitrika’s aaku remma motif means leaf and bud. The pattern is woven in the jamdani style.

Contemporary "Ballakammi" weave saree by Vamshadhara Weavers Co-operative Producer Co. Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dark bodied saris were earlier woven for the farming community.

Today, they are contrasted with brilliantly coloured striped pallus, or end-pieces.

Kuppadam weave with contemporary dobby border by Vamshadhara Weavers Co-operative Producer Co. Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Older saris in khadi never had such vivid designs as the dyes stuffs were usually of natural materials.

With industrial azo-free dyes, brilliant, fluorescent colours can be achieved to lift this simple woven khadi sari pattern to a level attractive to young sari wearers.

"Kuttu" - "Joint" Checks Kuppadam Saree by Vamshadhara Weavers Co-operative Producer Co. Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Black and white checks with a bright red border, allows a simple weave to become a graphic fashion statement in this Chitrika sari woven in Ponduru.

New designs and colours have allowed khadi to offer something more than the old ‘freedom movement’ saris that were notable for their simple austerity.

Ambar Khadi uneven checks saree by Vamshadhara Weavers Co-operative Producer Co. Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Coloured checks and lines on white make a range of saris suitable for summer wear, when the texture and structure of khadi allows the body to cool naturally.

Crystal and Trishulam motif Jamdani products by Vamshadhara Weavers Co-operative Producer Co. Ltd.Dastkari Haat Samiti

The weaver’s co-operative society in Ponduru also offers stoles with coloured end pieces and jamdani patterns.

Khadi sari (2016) by UnknownDastkari Haat Samiti

Contemporary khadi

To catch that world and the lives of its producers, and the nature of true khadi, a project was undertaken in 2000 to honour khadi’s past, and point to a future that could move away from decline. Those times and now, almost 20 years later, show that the spirit of new khadi. Today, finer yarn and a return to natural dyes as well as a preference for very bright colours offer khadi new options for survival and success. Politicians, governments and khadi and handloom lovers are pushing for its wider acceptability in a world faced with an onslaught of synthetic machine-made fabrics.

Khadi sari (2017) by UnknownDastkari Haat Samiti

A contemporary khadi cotton sari retains the simple colourways and borders of earlier times.

Slight additions and changes in the border and pallu indicate is has been designed recently.

Khadi sari (2016) by UnknownDastkari Haat Samiti

A salmon pink sari with jamdani motifs on the body and a wide border woven in metallic threads displays the transparent quality that comes when hand spun khadi yarn is used to weave.

Khadi sari (2017) by MalkhaDastkari Haat Samiti

Malkha is the brand name of a development organization that explores natural dyeing and trains dyers and weavers to replicate the charm of old khadi cloth.

This sari in pure indigo dyed blue is comfortable, hardy and retains a certain simplicity.

Long Kurta with chudidaar and dupatta (2018) by Garment designed and manufactured by Ritu Beri.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Adapting khadi for fashion runways

Fashion designers are turning their attention to the textures of khadi. Fashion shows have taken place in different parts of the world highlighting the uniqueness of khadi.

Long Kurta (2018) by Garment designed and manufactured by Ritu Beri.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Ritu Beri, a well-known fashion designer, creates contemporary khadi style for a different world.

She shows how khadi goes far beyond saris and upholstery fabric. Her khadi-themed fashion shows illustrate how khadi is always relevant and beautiful.

Trousers & Shirts (2017) by Garment designed and manufactured by Ritu Beri.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Fashion designer Ritu Beri has been working on khadi for many years, to bring it up to the world of style to a generation that enjoys a free India.

Classic white khadi culottes and shorts team with printed and dyed khadi tops.

Long Kurta with chudidaar and dupatta (2018) by Garment designed and manufactured by Ritu Beri.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Khadi was first a statement for freedom, and then became a politicians’ uniform.

Today it offers its light textures and ‘breathable’ qualities to fashion designers like Ritu Beri who add Indian charm to styles for a new generation.

Kurta, trousers & jacket (2018) by Garment designed and manufactured by Ritu Beri.Dastkari Haat Samiti

Contemporary khadi textile fashions disabuse notions of khadi being stuck in a time warp.

Kurti and Pants (2007) by Sunaina SunejaDastkari Haat Samiti

Sunaina Suneja is a designer whose passion for Gandhi’s way of thinking led her to create khadi-wear for the new generation.

Her fashion shows have taken khadi to Australia and gives a flavor of Indian fabric and fashion to an international clientele.

Long Dress (2001) by Sunaina SunejaDastkari Haat Samiti

Coloured deep indigo, a simple long dress in khadi hand spun fabric shows the versatility of both hand spinning and hand weaving.

Calf-length Dress (2016) by Sunaina SunejaDastkari Haat Samiti

A model proudly wears designer Sunaina Suneja’s khadi dress on a ramp.

Block prints and vegetable dyes enhance the quality and value of khadi fabric.

Long Jacket, Kurta and Stole (2016) by Sunaina SunejaDastkari Haat Samiti

Hues of pale and dark mauve khadi fabric is displayed by an Australian fashion model at Sunaina Suneja’s khadi show.

The drape and style enhances the textural appeal of khadi.

Nalla Hari and his wife weaving togetherDastkari Haat Samiti

Credits: Story

Text: Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisans: Weaving Artisans from Ponduru
Ground Facilitator: Switha
Documentary Video: Chirodeep Chaudhuri & Jaya Jaitly
Curation: Aradhana Nagpal

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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