Contemporary Khadi Breaks New Ground

The Vamshadhara Weavers Producer Company Ltd is collectively owned and run by the weavers of Srikakulam district.

They market under the brand name of Chitrika which is a not for profit agency managed by social workers.

Their colours designs which have moved away from the original styles, have popularized khadi from this area once again.

Weavers are managers, accountants and salesmen in their small sales outlet in Deveravalasa village.

The wide variety of colours and designs in saris, stoles and running fabric make it a treat for a visitor.

During the bazaar season, the co-operative society markets its khadi textiles at rented stall in craft fairs in different cities. They are selling online too.

The Ponduru store stocks coloured yarn for the weavers, dress fabric, sarees, dupattas and stoles in a variety of colours, dyed both in chemically and natural colours.

In a finer count of Kerala Superfine khadi yarn for the warp, and hand spun khadi for the weft, the sari sold under the ‘Chitrika’ brand name by the weaver’s co-operative replicates the simplicity of old khadi patterns consisting of a contrast border and a small spiked ’temple’ border embellishment

Another Chitrika brand khadi sari adds another coloured strip to the border and ‘temple’ spikes akin to the ornate Kanjeevaram saris of Tamil Nadu.

Chitrika’s aaku remma motif means leaf and bud. The pattern is woven in the jamdani style.

Dark bodied saris were earlier woven for the farming community.

Today, they are contrasted with brilliantly coloured striped pallus, or end-pieces.

Older saris in khadi never had such vivid designs as the dyes stuffs were usually of natural materials.

With industrial azo-free dyes, brilliant, fluorescent colours can be achieved to lift this simple woven khadi sari pattern to a level attractive to young sari wearers.

Black and white checks with a bright red border, allows a simple weave to become a graphic fashion statement in this Chitrika sari woven in Ponduru.

New designs and colours have allowed khadi to offer something more than the old ‘freedom movement’ saris that were notable for their simple austerity.

Coloured checks and lines on white make a range of saris suitable for summer wear, when the texture and structure of khadi allows the body to cool naturally.

The weaver’s co-operative society in Ponduru also offers stoles with coloured end pieces and jamdani patterns.

A contemporary khadi cotton sari retains the simple colourways and borders of earlier times.

Slight additions and changes in the border and pallu indicate is has been designed recently.

A salmon pink sari with jamdani motifs on the body and a wide border woven in metallic threads displays the transparent quality that comes when hand spun khadi yarn is used to weave.

Malkha is the brand name of a development organization that explores natural dyeing and trains dyers and weavers to replicate the charm of old khadi cloth.

This sari in pure indigo dyed blue is comfortable, hardy and retains a certain simplicity.

Ritu Beri, a well-known fashion designer, creates contemporary khadi style for a different world.

She shows how khadi goes far beyond saris and upholstery fabric. Her khadi-themed fashion shows illustrate how khadi is always relevant and beautiful.

Fashion designer Ritu Beri has been working on khadi for many years, to bring it up to the world of style to a generation that enjoys a free India.

Classic white khadi culottes and shorts team with printed and dyed khadi tops.

Khadi was first a statement for freedom, and then became a politicians’ uniform.

Today it offers its light textures and ‘breathable’ qualities to fashion designers like Ritu Beri who add Indian charm to styles for a new generation.

Contemporary khadi textile fashions disabuse notions of khadi being stuck in a time warp.

Sunaina Suneja is a designer whose passion for Gandhi’s way of thinking led her to create khadi-wear for the new generation.

Her fashion shows have taken khadi to Australia and gives a flavor of Indian fabric and fashion to an international clientele.

Coloured deep indigo, a simple long dress in khadi hand spun fabric shows the versatility of both hand spinning and hand weaving.

A model proudly wears designer Sunaina Suneja’s khadi dress on a ramp.

Block prints and vegetable dyes enhance the quality and value of khadi fabric.

Hues of pale and dark mauve khadi fabric is displayed by an Australian fashion model at Sunaina Suneja’s khadi show.

The drape and style enhances the textural appeal of khadi.

Read more about khadi weaving here:
-Khadi spinning and weaving: An age-old journey
-An archive from the dawn of the 21 st century