Men's Fashion in the Joseon Dynasty

Joseon Dynasty
1392–1910

The establishment of the Joseon dynasty in 1392 fueled an extraordinary cultural renaissance. The new political vision of the state promoted Neo-Confucianism in both theoretical explorations and practical implementation in nearly every aspect of society. The Neo-Confucian royal court and elite literati (yangban), the primary patrons of the arts, embraced and encouraged the advancement of secular art and culture.

Dallryung, official robe
1501 - 1600

Dallryung is the official's robe with round neck worn in Joseon dynasty. This Dallryung shows a distinctive formation of the early Joseon dynasty. It is made of cotton and single layered, and has narrow and straight collars. Originally it was pink.

Bangryeong, Jacket with squred neck
1530 - 1580

This half sleeve banryeong, was made of satin damask with small flower motif and silk tabby lining. The collar was square and the front opening met symmetrically at the center.

Aekjureum, Men's coat with side pleats
1501-1550

Aekjureum is noble men's coat used to be worn on jacket and trousers. A double layered cotton Aekjureum coat. It is assumed that the fabric was dyed in indigo blue but much faded in the ground.

Jikryeong, Men's coat with Straight Collar
1524 - 1582

Jikryeong used to be worn as a formal wear for nobleman, or as an official wear for low rank government officers until the mid-Joseon period.

Dallryung, Official's robe
1508 - 1572

Dallryung is the official's robe and is distinguished by the pattern of Hyungbae(insignia) attached to the chest and back. This Dallryung is made of satin damask with a cloud and treasures pattern. It is single layered and the front is shorter than the back. A splendid insignia of peacock pattern made of Jikgeum-dan(satin damask woven with supplementary golden wefts) is placed on the chest. Immediately after its excavation, it was dark blue, but now it remains partially colored.

Cheollik, Men's coat with pleats
1508-1572

Cheollik is a jacket that used to be worn as a deaily wear fr men or an official wear for military officials. This Cheollick excavate from the tomb of Jeong, Eung-doo (1508~1572), a 1st class officer in the mid-Joseon period. Cheollick is constructed with gathered skirt-like underpart and top, and usually worn as a daily wear for men or as a military uniform for the officers. This single-layered Cheollick is made of silk with a cloud and treasures pattern. It has detachable sleeves for a convenience in bowing.

Jungchimak, Men's coat
1574-1669

This coat is the early form of slitted coat, therefore the sleeves became gradually wide toward the ends like a mortar, known as Jeolgutong. It is elaborately quilted in 1.6 cm intervals to stand against cold.

Do-po, Noblemen's Coat
1581-1633

A noblemen's formal wear. This Do-po is made of a thin, coarse silk with grape pattern. The high, straight collar is cut off at the end. The sleeves are wide and long. The side panel starts from the side line and goes under the back panel, thus creating a doudble layers on the back.

Bangryeong is a long coat specifically designed for horsebackriding and for soldiers. The symmetrical squared collars the short standing sleeve, long center slit on the back and the side straps to hold the side seams are all to promote the comfortness in horse riding.

Dappo, Men's Coat without Sleeve
1636-1731

Dappo is a long vest/waistcoat with a long slit on the back. It used to be worn over Chang-ui or Cheollik, or uner Dallryung in the late Joseon period. The outer laer is a lotus-petterend silk and the lining is a silk tabby. The collars are narrow, blade-shaped and the breast ties are also in a long, narrow shape to match.

Dappo, Men's coat with short sleeve
1677 - 1746

The two coat was made of cho(thick and fine silk), delicately quilted in 0.8cm-width. The side seam was slitted. The hem was finely finished with additional straight cloth. A neckband was sewn on the square collar which was adjusted face to face in the center front. The coat were worn as an inner wear under other outfits or everyday wear to protecting themselves from cold. The way of sewing and adjusting was same except the sleeve. The one is short sleeve coat , and the other is sleeveless coat.

It shows a distinctive form of Sochang-ui, completed with the neckband and breast ties. The size of armholes is little wider than the end of sleeve and the length of coat and sleeves are almost the same.

Jobok, Official's ceremonial attire
1677-1746

It was a complete set of an official court outfit includes red silk coat(jeokchoui), decorative skirt,(sang) front adornment(pyeseul), woven back adornment(husu) and belt(dae). The decorative skirt and front adornment were made of sa(silk gauze) without motif. The robe was double layered, outer layer was made of satin damask with cloud-treasure motif and lined with silk tabby. The belt was made of satin damask with motives(lychee, Buddhist hand, pomegranate, etc.) The woven back adornment was made of velvet with two twin cranes motif.

Dallryung, Official's robe
1677-1746

Government official's robe. This is excavated from Lee, Jik, the lord Milchang, the great-grandson of the lord Inseong, the 7th sond of King SeonJo--the 14th king of Joseon Dynasty. The outer and inner layers are both made of clowd-patterend silk. There are two 38x39 cm sized clowd and crane insignia patched on the chest and the back. The side panel is connected to the back body panel with buttons.

Shimui Reproduction

This single layered shim-ui, made of satin, was the first outfit among the clothing that the dead wore as a cerements. The skirt of the coat was constructed with twelve panels. The half width of sleeve was same as the length of waist-up. The double layered breast ties were sewn in between the bodice and the skirt in the front. The front opening, the hem, the sleeve end, and the fabric belt was trimmed with black material. The waist was wrapped around with a fabric belt and tied in a knot. Then a braided narrow belt was hooked on top and hung down parallel. Although the belt color was faded, we can find the many color thread was used to braid the belt.

Bangryeong, Men's coat
1636-1731

Bangryeong is jacker for military man that has worn on jeogori and pant. It based on the symmetric collar and front opening, narrow sleeve, back center slit. It was double layered and made of silk tabby in and out.

Jobok, Official's Ceremonial Attire
19th century

Hakchangui, Confucian Scolar's Robe
19th century

Hakchangui is an everyday clothes for a senior scholar or a nobleman.

Magoja, Over jacket for Men
1853-1936

Jebok, King and Official’s Ceremonial Attire
Early 20th century

Jungchimak, Boy’s Coat
19th century

A boys’ single layer Jungchimak coat with wide sleeves and side slits. It is made of blue ramie cloth. It has wide sleeves and its sagging part is almost straight. This shows a distinctive form of Jungchimak in the late Joseon period.