Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Identity and history
The history of this fabric goes back to the 19th century in a place called Chirala, in coastal Andhra Pradesh. ‘Telia’ means oil, and 'Rumal' means handkerchief. Telia Rumal has been the mainstay of Ikat in Andhra. Having originated in Chirala, the skills later spread to Nalgonda district.
Telia Rumal: Ikat textile (2017) by Weaver Gadu SrinuDastkari Haat Samiti
In Arab countries, the Muslim women used to wear these Telia Rumals as head scarves. This fabric gave them a cool feel during blazing summers. And in winters, it kept them warm.
The fishermen in Mumbai and Andhra Pradesh used them as lungi (loincloth), turbans or shoulder cloths because the oil in this cloth did not let salt water seep through.
Telia Rumal: Warp on the loom (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
This fabric was a hot seller in Andhra Pradesh for about 20-25 years. At that time, the designs used to be simple stars and dots representations. But when this fabric came to the Telangana region, the design underwent dramatic changes.
Telia Rumal: Weaving a Telia Rumal (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Such was their skill, the dyers/weavers could make any design they wished for on the fabric.
Telangana was under the rule of Nizams at that time. Each village had the wealthy zamindars (landlords) who wore this Telia Rumal as a turban, as a mark of their power.
Block printed Stole VariationsDastkari Haat Samiti
Once India became independent, the Nizam rule ended and the zamindari system was also abolished. As a result, the fabric so entrenched in the status quo, also began to disappear.
Block printed Stole Block printed Stole by Gajam GovardhanaDastkari Haat Samiti
In contrast, the same cloth was used by fishermen in Chirala as a loin cloth when they went fishing. Apparently, the red colour and the oily fragrance also played a part in attracting the fish and the fishermen never returned empty-handed.
Telia Rumal (Contemporary) by Weaver Gadu SrinuDastkari Haat Samiti
Older Telia Rumals only had geometric motifs. That began to change in the early part of the 20th century and figurative designs began to be incorporated.
Telia Rumal: Detail (Contemporary) by Weaver Gadu SrinuDastkari Haat Samiti
Designs like lions, birds, elephants, and even clocks and aeroplanes were incorporated.
Telia Rumal (Contemporary)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Gajam Govardhan shows his award-winning Telia Rumal of 100 motifs.
Telia Rumal: Yarn prepared in the traditional way for Telia Rumal weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Traditionally, the yarn is treated with oils of sesame and castor seed, along with sheep dung. This process took 21 days.
Telia Rumal: Weft preparation (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
While the tie-dyed warp is on the loom, the tie-dyed weft is being prepared here.
Telia Rumal: Weft preparation (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The process starts with the design being plotted on a graph, that is then transferred through ties onto the yarn.
Telia Rumal: Warp on the loom (2017) by Weaver Gadu SrinuDastkari Haat Samiti
The yarn goes through several steps during weaving before the final finished product is rendered.
Telia Rumal: Stole in Telia Rumal style (2017) by Weaver Gadu SrinuDastkari Haat Samiti
The weaver's daughter displays his creation based on the Telia Rumal design seen in the graph.
Telia Rumal: Double ikat sari (Contemporary) by Weaver Gadu SrinuDastkari Haat Samiti
The Telia Rumal design has been adapted to new products, such as the saris, to remain relevant and contemporary.
Telia Rumal: detail of a double ikat sari (Contemporary) by Weaver Gadu SrinuDastkari Haat Samiti
Detail from a sari based on the Telia Rumal style.
Telia Rumal: Ikat weaving (2017) by Weaver SuryamDastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about art of Telia Rumal here:
- Weaving Ikat
- Weaving Telia Rumal
Text: Aloka Hiremath, Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisan: Gajam Govardhan and associated weavers
Ground Facilitator: Shalini Shashi
Documentary Video: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Curation: Ruchira Verma
