Weaving Freedom in Meghalaya

Handwoven practices emphasise care, ingenuity and finesse. A far cry from the mass production and consumption that values standardisation over quality and mastery.

Vegetable dyes are used for coloring fabrics. These are non-synthetic colours that do not pollute water or harm endangered species and rich agriculture. By engaging with the artisans and weavers, known for their silk weaving tradition and culture, producing fine silk fabric, these cooperative societies are providing a source of livelihood to several thousand households.

Although most of the ingredients used for natural dyeing had been locally available the women artisans started with only a few colours. Furthermore, the traditional process of natural dyeing took an enormous amount of time. Their resources of natural firewood needed to be collected in abundance only for making a small amount of dye. These challenges meant that it was not cost effective, so it was difficult to scale this commercially.

As the colours have been produced traditionally they are suitable for natural yarns. By sourcing the raw materials locally, a vast range of products can be made with use of Azofree and vegetables dyes. These artisans, known for their silk weaving tradition, producing fine silk fabric, together with the co-operative, provide a source of livelihood to the women and their families.

The traditional Khasi Dhara, is mostly plain in design with simple border patterns. The non-synthetic plant based colours produce these earthly shades that are less loud and more aligned with mother nature's hues.

The traditional attire worn by the Khasi women is a costly silk material woven out of Mulberry silk yarn. This traditional Khasi Dhara is simple but elegant in design and comes in various colours and simple border patterns. This is different from the typical Benaras sarees which is much more elaborate.

The weavers from the Khasi tribe learn some of their patterns from the leaders in the cooperative, or in many cases, they create their own. It is this kind of creation that is important to note, as the women weavers are not just workers but they are also are artisans and entrepreneurs.

These women weavers are not only learning skills that carry on traditions, but they are also innovating them and recreating new methods and patterns that will, contrary to popular belief will outlive the unsustainable practices of our era. Many say that these traditions will die out. This is not the case, in fact it is the opposite. As mass production gets sloppy, ever cutting corners in quality and material, this kind of cottage industry is fueled by love of the craft, skill and precision.

Many of the patterns designed here reflect those of nature, such as the cherry blossom that flourishes not in spring like in Japan, but in the sweet cool mists of November, contrasting with the deep earth colours that celebrates nature itself.

The co-operative is also particularly known for its fabric made of hand spun Eri – a silk yarn – in traditional colours.

Hasina, the founder of Impulse Enterprises is seen here walking with Assamese Tribe in the Muhuramukh Village. Hasina Kharbhih, who is from the Khasi tribe is working with 3000 women artisans in eight north eastern states through the social enterprise: www.impulsepower.com. Each tribe weave their textile traditional pattern and each tribe has a story.

Here Hasina is seen walking with the directors and team members of the social enterprise. Hasina, she understands how this is not just about the women's livelihood, it is about sustaining their history in a contemporary and innovative way. Layered with contemporary design, modern production technology women are able to actively contribute to the growing eco-system and continue their traditions, whilst not being stuck in the past, they are evolving their own future.

The Nongkrem Festival is one of the most important of the Khasi tribe. Here the women wear either the traditional Dhara or Jainesm. The latter includes two pieces of contrasting fabrics, which rest on each shoulder. The bride also wears a crown on her wedding day which is either made from gold or from silver, and a peak is attached to its back.

The wedding attire in traditional Meghalaya wedding is unique and ornamentation is intrinsic to the culture of Meghalaya.

She wears a dhara or Jainesm as it is known in local language. Traditionally, a portion of the bride’s wedding attire as well as jewelry is given by the groom. For her wedding day, the bride is dressed in a traditional Khasi ceremonial dress that stands out with bright colours of red and orange.

The bride also wears a crown here as well as at her wedding day which is either made from gold or from silver, and a peak is attached to its back.

One of the most important pieces of jewelry is a gold pendant known as Kynjri Ksiar. Donning an ornament on her head is an important custom women in these ceremonies in Meghalaya.

The men wear a Lymphong teaming it up with a sarong. This ceremonial attire is worn at weddings as well.