Hana Kanzashi

　Hana kanzashi (traditional Japanese flower-decorated ornamental hairpins) have seasonal flower motifs. Such hairpins, particularly those of high quality, have adorned the hair of Japanese women since the Nara period. They are associated with modern-day Kyoto—in particular with the maiko, or apprentice geisha, who live in Kyoto's geisha districts. New hana kanzashi are made when a maiko makes her debut. The maiko wear different hairpins each month. There are also hairpins specific for special events such as the Gion Festival. There are set designs for each geisha district and for the hairpins worn at dance performances held in the spring and the fall. Hairpins can also be chosen to match individual performances or costumes.

There are two methods of making the flowers used in these hairpins: zouka (“artificial flowers”) and tsumami (“pinching”). Here, we will look at the tsumami method (also known as tsumami saiku or tsumami craft). We will follow the tsumami process that produces the flowers making up a hairpin. A high quality plain-weave silk called habutae is used to make tsumami flowers. This is thin silk, slightly lighter than that used for kimono. In recent years, it has apparently become difficult to obtain habutae as well as the best type of starch and other traditional tools and materials. As a result, it is a struggle for makers today to give the hairpins the same finish as in the past.

The center of the folded cloth is repositioned with the tweezers, and the cloth is arranged in the shape of a petal.

One by one, the petals are placed onto a round paperboard base attached to a wire rod. 

Details are added to make the flowers look more real. For example, stamens are added, created from spirals of thin wire wrapped in gold thread. Authenticity is given to small red buds by putting a touch of white on their edges. 

For cherry blossom, hiwa and toki (a light pink) are used, or hiwa on its own. For buds, two components are bound with hiraito to the wire core, and six of these are made.

Maiko wear hana kanzashi with different flowers each month. Including the hairpins associated with the Gion Festival, a maiko needs to have a total of 13 types of hairpins. In addition, the various geisha districts hold dance performances in the spring. These are the Miyako Odori (associated with the Gion Kōbu district), the Gion Odori (Gion Higashi), the Kyō Odori (Miyagawacho), the Kamogawa Odori (Pontocho), and the Kitano Odori (Kamishichiken). Hairpins with designs unique to each geisha district are made for these meetings, as well as hairpins that suit that year’s performance theme, costumes, or dancers.

 Hairpin designs and manufacturing methods are not written down for posterity. Long-standing designs that have been passed down are recreated from the craftsmen’s memory and long experience.

Narcissus were originally associated with February, but they are often also used in March, because rapeseed is the only other flower for that month. 

Peonies and wisteria are also used in May.

Hydrangeas are also used in June.

In July, specific hairpin designs are worn during the Gion Festival only.

Morning glory is also used in August.

Ginkgo leaves etc, are also used in August.

Each December, kaomise—official debut kabuki performances—are held at the Minami-za theater in Kyoto. At the venue, traditional noticeboards known as maneki  post the names of performers in the seasonal debut.