Formalizing ranks
In the first half of the 18th century, there was little difference between the outfits of officers and soldiers. They could be distinguished by the quality of the fabrics, their embroidery, or other clothing details.
Infanterie. Régiment du Lyonnais (1721) by Jacques Antoine Delaistre (designer)Musée de l'Armée - Hôtel des Invalides
The different ranks were also distinguished by specific weapons—spontons (half-pikes) for the officers, partisans (polearms) for the sergeants. They also wore a stripe (then called a bordé) on their sleeves.
Paire d'épaulettes de colonel, vers 1770 (Ca.1770) by AnonymousMusée de l'Armée - Hôtel des Invalides
During the Seven Years' War, specific rank marks emerged. The officers were provided with codified, shaped epaulettes. As they highlighted military and social hierarchy, they were disliked and were nicknamed Choiseul's rags, after a military officer called Duc de Choiseul.
Habit de caporal du régiment Courten-suisse, 1767 Habit de caporal du régiment Courten-suisse, 1767 (1767)Musée de l'Armée - Hôtel des Invalides
A more complex stripe system was also implemented for troops and non-commissioned officers. These were worn on the sleeves of the uniform. The two stripes on this uniform indicate the rank of corporal, the first rank of a non-commissioned officer.
Pelisse du régiment de hussards de Chamborant, 1779-1786 (Ca. 1786)Musée de l'Armée - Hôtel des Invalides
Stripes on the sleeves complemented the rank representation system. The fur, which lined the pelisse, was also different depending on rank or function—warrant officers and quartermasters wore fox back fur, while officers wore fox throat fur.
Paire d'épaulettes de colonel ayant appartenu au baron J. Peyrot, colonel au 16ème régiment de dragons (Ca. 1809)Musée de l'Armée - Hôtel des Invalides
Military ceremonial mark
During the French Revolution and the French Empire, the ranks inherited from the Old Regime (Ancien Régime) evolved. Rank marks became more complex. Insignia, embroidery, and epaulettes became more sophisticated.
The uniforms of officers were strictly defined by the Vendémiaire An XII regulation (September 24, 1803), which was largely incorporated into the 1812 regulation. New insignias appeared, including the sash.
The leadership of senior officers and generals also became particularly significant during this period, with Napoleon Bonaparte a prime example. This is why special consideration was given to the uniforms of officers, as seen here with Joachim Murat.
Following the conquest of Algeria, oriental-style outfits were introduced into the French military wardrobe. At first, these outfits were poorly regulated and used the formal vocabulary already adopted by the hussars (rank marks on the sleeves) and displayed obvious luxury.
In 1883, the dolman was introduced as a uniform for all officers. Ranks were displayed with a system of stripes on the sleeves. These could be identified by their type (fabric, gold, or silver, sometimes mixed) and their number.
Képi et vareuse bleu horizon modèle 1915 de lieutenant de l'aérostation Képi et vareuse bleu horizon modèle 1915 de lieutenant de l'aérostation (20th century) by La belle jardinière (manufacturer)Musée de l'Armée - Hôtel des Invalides
Recognizing each other anyway
At the outbreak of World War I, eye-catching outfits were no longer in use. Blending into the landscape became more important—the horizon blue uniform was adopted, and rank marks on the sleeves and kepi became more discreet. They also started being displayed on helmets.
Tunique d'essai d'officier général (1928) by Richard (Manufacturer)Musée de l'Armée - Hôtel des Invalides
The realities of modern warfare, however, did not eliminate the need for pageantry. From 1921 onwards, more ostentatious ceremonial outfits were adopted, including the return of embroidery and brighter colors, such as red. Here, a division general can be identified by the three stars.
During World War II, when the French army was re-equipped, French traditions were adjusted to match American styles. The stripe system was worn on sleeves and headgear. In the case of this commander, it was painted in a handcrafted way.
Sergent-chef en tenue de combat modèle F2 bariolée théatre européen sous mandat de l'ONU (1998) by Marck-Wahler (manufacturer)Musée de l'Armée - Hôtel des Invalides
This stripe system was maintained afterward. It is worn on the epaulettes of a service uniform. In battle uniform, these are worn on the chest and fixed with a hook and loop fastener. They were first made of fabric or metal wire (gold or silver), but are now made dark fabric (low-visibility stripes).
Want to learn more about the history of ranks and uniforms? Visit the Army Museum's Pinterest account on uniformology and the Artips "Uniforms from Every Angle" trail.
A story written and edited by the teams of the Musée de l'Armée.
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