Tarakasi: The Making of Silver Filigree

A look at the process of fashioning silver wires into fine filigree objects

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Silver Filigree: Fine Creations (2017) by Jewellery shop in the marketDastkari Haat Samiti

Cuttack, the 'Silver City of India', is famous for its centuries old Chandi Tarakasi, the craft of silver filigree. The craft is believed to have been introduced in Odisha when the Mughals established their rule in India. The process is highly elaborate, using precision, patience and skilled handwork, apart from the ingenuity and creativity of the artisans.

Silver Filigree: Silver Brick (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Preparing silver wires from the silver brick

In the beginning, raw silver in the form of silver bricks is procured from the shops. In Odisha, mostly traders get their silver from Kolkata and Mumbai.  

Silver Filigree: Transforming the silver (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The silver bricks are then melted and drawn into wires of different gauges using this wire drawing machine.

Silver Filigree: Transforming the silver (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Melted silver is passed through the heavy portion of the machine, converting into flat wires.

Silver Filigree: Wires (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The thickness of the wires is determined by the design. Silver wires of various thicknesses are used in the production of any one piece.

Silver Filigree: Twisting silver wire (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Silversmiths burn the thicker silver wires to convert them into finer wires.

Silver Filigree: Casting the silver (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The silver wire that is ultimately produced can be extremely fine.

Silver Filigree: Tools used (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Tools used for silver filigree work

The filigree craftsmen use basic hand tools to transform the silver wires into works of art.

Silver Filigree: Tools used (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Tool used for silver filigree work.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Tool used to twist the silver wires.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The thin silver wire is carefully twisted using the tool.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The needle used for twisting the silver wires.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Twisted silver wires ready for filigree work.

Silver Filigree: Casting the silver (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Die used to convert flat silver pieces into various circular shapes.

Silver Filigree: Casting the silver (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Die used to convert silver into small dotted shapes for finer designs.

Silver Filigree: Casting the silver (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Various die cuts are used by the silversmiths to give shape to the silver wires.

Silver Filigree: Casting the silver (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Some basic filigree designs samples.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Transforming the wires into works of art

The process of creating even the simplest of filigree products is an intricate one and can involve a group of four to five people. 

Silver Filigree: Design spec sheet (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The first step of the process involves drawing a sketch of the design by hand. Here, a filigree craftsman is holding the sketch of a Chandi Medha, the silver filigree backdrop of the Durga idol built during Durga Puja.

Silver Filigree: workshop (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Workshops and workers for the wire-making process are different from the ones where the filigree work is done.

For smaller filigree items like jewellery and show pieces, the workshops where all the silversmiths sit are generally located behind the showrooms.

They sit in groups of four or five, facilitating the complete process from twisting the silver wires to fashioning the product to cleaning the finished piece.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A lot of filigree craftsmen also have workshop spaces in their homes. Here, a team of silversmiths in their home workshop are seen crafting filigree for different sections of the tableau for the Durga Puja.

Making 'Chandi Medha', the silver tableau for the Durga idol during Puja season, is becoming increasing popular in Odisha.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A silversmith curls and cuts off little pieces of fine silver wire, to use in his design.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A thicker wire is used to make the frame or farma and thinner wires are used to add the details inside.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The fine silver wire is twisted and moulded into fine and elaborate designs. These are fitted exactly into the frame.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

All the individual pieces are assembled to make the final product.

Silver Filigree: Jewellery details (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

An artisan works on creating an elaborate design.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

In the filigree work of a big project like chandi medha, craftsmen also use flat shapes in the design along with fine wire work. In the image, a silversmith is cutting the silver sheet into petal shapes.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Finally, heat is used to attach all the parts assembled together. In the image, notice how the intricate wire work is filled in places with flat shapes.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Silversmith in his workshop, fusing the joints of silver filigree work.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Filigree work requires quite a lot of fire and heat, and more often than not, the craftsmen in Cuttack work out of small and cramped workshop spaces. For this reason, many artisans prefer to do most of their production in the winter months.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Cleaning & Polishing 

Once the objects are ready, they are ready to be washed, cleaned, polished and dried.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The readied silver filigree is first immersed in a solution of dilute acid for cleaning.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

After immersing it in diluted acid, it is put in a polishing solution and using a brush and a brass tipped tool, is polished to perfect shine.

Silver Filigree: Shining the silver (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A tool like this is used to make the silver filigree piece shine.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Brushes used for cleaning the silver filigree products.

Silver Filigree: Finally tuned process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

In the image, a craftsmen is polishing different parts of the huge filigree throne.
The craftsmen who work on bigger projects like designing the throne for the Durga Puja, also build bigger workshop spaces.

Silver Filigree: In process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The worldwide popularity of Tarakasi keeps the craftsmen of Odisha plenty busy. Come rain or shine, the work of a craftsman does not stop.

Silver Filigree: Fine Creations (2017) by Syed Ruksar AliDastkari Haat Samiti

Credits: Story

Text: Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisans: Ruksar Ali and community filigree artists
Ground Facilitator: Ankit Kumar
Documentary Video: Ankit Kumar
Curation: Ruchira Verma

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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