Installation view of the exhibition 'Der Klub der wilden Maler' (2015) by Marie-Sophie BeinkeMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
The recipient of the 2015 MoMu Award was Marie-Sophie Beinke (°1990, Munich, Germany), with her collection ‘Der Klub der wilden Maler’.
Drawings for the collection 'Der Klub der wilden Maler' (2015) by Marie-Sophie BeinkeMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
Marie-Sophie Beinke took the life and work of the German painters group of Die Brücke (or ‘the club of the wild painters’, 1905–1913), as a starting point for her menswear collection, which questions what it means to be a man.
Sketches for the collection 'Der Klub der wilden Maler' (2015) by Marie-Sophie BeinkeMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
Woodcuts and primitivism play a large role in this art movement which is translated into the collection by woodprints of the basic geometric shapes like a triangle, circle and a square.
Under the Trees (Akte im Freien) (1911) by Max PechsteinMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
The art of Die Brücke was emotionally agitated, colorful and expressionistic, highly creative and non-naturalistic, yet never totally abstract.
'Der Klub der wilden Maler' at SHOW 2015 © Etienne Tordoir/Catwalkpictures (2015) by Marie-Sophie BeinkeMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
Die Brücke even made the similar French Fauves movement seem tame in comparison.
'Der Klub der wilden Maler' at SHOW 2015 © Etienne Tordoir/Catwalkpictures (2015) by Marie-Sophie BeinkeMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
'Der Klub der wilden Maler', Backstage at SHOW 2015 © Boy Kortekaas (2015) by Marie-Sophie BeinkeMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
Photo of the collection 'Der Klub der wilden Maler' © Michaël Smits (2015) by Marie-Sophie BeinkeMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
Beinke studied the painters’ casual, nonchalant and elegant poses, clothes and mannerisms as well as their smart suits, which contrasted with their radical outlook on art, nature and life.
She strips the silhouettes down to the bare necessities (the basic geometric shapes and the colors red, white and black) and works from there: it is no wonder that she was selected for the Future Fashion Designer Scholarship by Bruno Pieters, whom she consulted with about fabrics and sustainable approaches.
At the heart of the collection is an unlimited creativity, and the sustainable aspect naturally flows from there.
Photo of the collection 'Der Klub der wilden Maler' © Michaël Smits (2015) by Marie-Sophie BeinkeMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
The collection tells a story in two parts: one is more abstract with woodcuts and geometric shapes, the second part becomes more wild with reliefs, embroidery, tufting and knitwear of mental landscapes and wild motifs.
Photo of the collection 'Der Klub der wilden Maler' © Michaël Smits (2015) by Marie-Sophie BeinkeMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
The two parts are not separate but they fuse from one movement towards the other, just like the painters from Die Brücke formed a bridge between present and past.
Photo of the collection 'Der Klub der wilden Maler' © Michaël Smits (2015) by Marie-Sophie BeinkeMoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
In her own words: the silhouettes of the two parts are all another feeling of the same.
Following her graduation, Marie-Sophie Beinke did a six month internship at Walter Van Beirendonck, where she worked as his Assistant Designer until March 2017. Since October 2016 - August 2017, Beinke was teaching the Master Course Drawing and Graphics as Guest Lecturer at the Fashion Department of the Artesis Plantijn Hogeschool Antwerpen.
www.mariesophiebeinke.com
Every year, MoMu awards a prize to one of the graduating Master students of the Fashion Department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp: originality, a strong visual language and craftsmanship are key ingredients for a collection to win a prize.
The MoMu Award gives a single student the opportunity to present his or her collection in an exhibition at the MoMu Gallery.
Special thanks to Marie-Sophie Beinke and the photographers Monica Ho, Boy Kortekaas, Michaël Smits and Etienne Tordoir.
