The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange is an initiative for established and emerging fashion talent from across the Commonwealth’s 53 countries to showcase the power and potential of artisan fashion skills to deliver new networks, trade links and highlight sustainability.
Behind the Scenes of The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange 2018Commonwealth Fashion Council
The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange 2018
For the first time, The Commonwealth comes together to showcase a wealth of design and artisan fashion talent across its 53 countries. Launched by Commonwealth Secretary General the Rt Hon Patricia Scotland and Livia Firth, founder of sustainability consultancy Eco-Age, the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange is a major new initiative that promotes new networks, trade links and lasting sustainable supply chains. The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange is an ambitious project with long term aims, that was developed in partnership with Swarovski, The Woolmark Company and MATCHESFASHION.COM.
Artisan studio by NestCommonwealth Fashion Council
The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange was conceived by ardent ethical campaigner Livia Firth. The idea was to pair designers with artisans from across the 53 nations of the Commonwealth and ask them to create one fashion look.
“This is a project rich in partnerships and creative co-design. For example, one of our very talented designers from India is paired with an artisan group in Tuvalu. As someone who is passionate about joining the threads of global fashion and creating real partnerships you can imagine how exciting it is for us to be involved.”
Livia Firth
Founder and creative director of Eco-Age
The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange at Buckingham PalaceCommonwealth Fashion Council
The launch at Buckingham Palace
On behalf of Her Majesty The Queen, Head of the Commonwealth, HRH The Duchess of Cambridge and HRH The Countess of Wessex hosted a reception to celebrate and showcase designs, designers and artisans from across the Commonwealth’s 53 countries who participated in the inaugural Commonwealth Fashion Exchange (CFE).
The initiative was launched by Commonwealth Secretary General the Rt Hon Patricia Scotland and Livia Firth, founder of sustainability consultancy Eco-Age who initiated and produced the ambitious Exchange project.
Benho for the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange on display at Buckingham Palace (2018-02-19) by BenhoCommonwealth Fashion Council
The reception saw 30 CFE creations displayed in the Palace’s State Apartment. From Thursday February 22, the looks were displayed at the Australian High Commission, London, before being exhibited during the Commonwealth Summit itself. Both exhibitions at Buckingham Palace and High Commission of Australia were carefully curated by VOGUE’s International Editor at Large, Hamish Bowles.
The Palace celebration included guests from the fashion industry across the Commonwealth nation with attendees including Anna Wintour, Edward Enninful, Livia Firth, Nadja Swarovski, Neelam Gill, Nigel Gosse, Ulric Jerome, Naomi Campbell, Stella McCartney, Adwoa Aboah, and Caroline Rush alongside many of the designers and artisans who created the CFE designs and representatives of the newly-affiliated Commonwealth Fashion Council.
The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange looks at Australian High Commission, LondonCommonwealth Fashion Council
The exhibition at the Australian High Commission, London
The looks were celebrated during London Fashion Week at a reception at Buckingham Palace on February 19th, before moving to a public exhibition at High Commission of Australia, London, on February 21st, where the exhibition was open to the public in the run up to the Commonwealth Heads of Government Summit, April 2018.
The Fashion Exchange: 31 looks, 31 designers, 31 artisans, 53 countries
The project is particularly timely as a global wave of interest in handmade products and authentic luxury causes a reassessment of the artisan fashion trades. In this way, The Fashion Exchange brings the values of the modern-day Commonwealth – women’s empowerment, ethical production and supply chains, innovation, economic growth and poverty reduction – to life through the globally appealing medium of fashion.
The Exchange: Asia
Celebrating both shared traditions and unique aesthetics and crafts, exchanges from Asia highlighted exquisite textiles and embellishments, from truck art to mirror embroidery and UNESCO protected Jamdani textiles. Representing countries India, Malaysia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Brunei Darussalam, Singapore, Pakistan
The Exchange: India x Tuvalu
Designer Behno x artisans Fafine Niutao I Aotearoa
Behno created a repurposed wool coat (Woolmark certified) featuring Indian mirror-work and border and grid beadwork, and a sheer dress made from remnants of blue silk organza, embellished with Swarovski crystals, and scattered with black crochet 'kolose' panels. Five women from Tuvalu, artisans from the cooperative Fafine Niutao I Aotearoa, spent a month creating the panels using a crochet technique that is particulary intricate and popular in the region.
The Exchange: Malaysia
Designer Bernard Chandran
Bernard Chandran created his design in fine 'songket' - a royal Malay brocade, handwoven and patterned with gold and silver threads. He drew inspiration from Malay 'kerawang' - a style of traditional embroidery that involves cutting away the base-cloth to create a lace effect, contemporising the look with a geometric feel. The strapless dress is carefully structured and the floor-length coat is embroidered with wool yarn.
The Exchange: Bangladesh
Designer Bibi Russell
Bibi Russell designed a simple formal outfit consisting of a skirt, jacket, scarf with matching accessories. The look is made from hand-woven Jamdani cloth, which is unique to Bangladesh, and is considered an 'Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity' by UNESCO. Red has been used to emphasise happiness and joy, the beauty Bibi sees in the village of Bangladesh. Through this outfit, Bibi Russell wants to give her tribute to incredible Jamdani weavers for their magical work.
The Exchange: Sri Lanka
Designer Buddhi Batiks
Darshi Keerthisena was surrounded by fabric from an early age, as her family began Buddhi Batiks back in the 70s. Darshi created a wrap coat dress using Seacell™ fabric made from algae and silk which was hand pleated and batiked by Buddhi Batiks' team of craft women in the village of Koswadiya, and lined with peace (Ahimsa) silk from India. The sleeves are detachable for greater versatility, and the obi belt is made from Piñatex, a pineapple-based leather alternative. The look was embellished with laser cut sequins made from Piñatex and Swarovski upcycled crystals.
The Exchange: Brunei Darussalam x Singapore
Designer Na Forrer x Artisans Lully Selb
To celebrate the collaboration between Singapore and Brunei, the focus was on the evolution of the modern Malay woman, as it is a symbol of a shared history and identity. For this project, Na Forrér created an evening dress known as a “Baju Kebaya” – a common traditional womenswear worn by Malay women from Brunei and Singapore during formal events and festivities. The traditional corset crafted from traditional Bruneian Songket fabric is normally worn by brides and grooms for marriage ceremonies and on royal and state occasions. The boxy and high shoulder represents womens’ empowerment and modernity. The dress was made from a 100% wool crepe, featuring a hand-painted Euca silk designed by Lully Selb, and Bruneian Songket, a traditional material woven out of silk and cotton gold and silver threads. Historically, the textile of choice of Malay elite and royalty, Songket was often handed down from father to son or mother to daughter, as prized family heirlooms to be treasured and worn only for the most special of occasions. To exhibit the collaboration between Brunei and Singapore, the Brunei emblem Panji-Panji is featured in the custom textile design.
The Exchange: Pakistan
Designer Rizwan Beyg
Rizwan Beyg's design philosophy is, and always has been, 'Pakistan Modern'. Rizwan created a skirt and coat for the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange, featuring motifs designed by the 'truck artists' of Pakistan. The pattern of the garment was first worked on by original truck artists and digitally printed on silk, after which it was embroidered by the village women of Bhwalpur.
The Exchange: Africa
Drawing from a myriad of diverse cultures across African countries, these exchanges tell stories of heritage, tradition, and modernisation through symbolism and social narratives. Participating countries included; South Africa, Kenya, Zambia, Rwanda, Uganda, Botswana, Swaziland, Cameroon, United Republic of Tanzania, Nigeria, Malawi, Sierra Leone, Ghana, Gambia, Mozambique, Mauritius
The Exchange: South Africa x Lesotho
Designer Clive Rundle x artisan House of Thethana
House of Thethana in Lesotho worked under Clive’s direction to design a custom textile print, achieved by superimposing one print onto another - welding two images together to create a visual to print onto silk for the final garment construction. The fabric was then screen-printed using water-based inks on to a silk ‘sandwich’ of organza, georgette, and habotai. The look consists of a wool and organza coat with Swarovski upcycled crystals, accompanied by wool and organza shorts and a woollen collar accessory. Lucilla Booyzen of SAFW facilitated the exchange.
The Exchange: Kenya x Zambia / Kenya
Designer Deepa Dosaja x artisans Artisan Fashion / Mumwa Crafts Association
Deepa Dosaja’s Deepa Flower Garden Gown was hand-embroidered and hand-painted, constructed from organic silk produced in Kenya, with elements of upcycled leather scraps and Swarovski upcycled crystals fashioned into floral embellishments. The embroidery and beading was crafted by Deepa’s in-house team, women who have been trained by Dosaja herself. The gown was also lined with remnant silk pieces, reflecting the brand’s ethos of reducing waste. To finish the look, Dosaja worked with Artisan Fashion, a social enterprise based in Kenya that connects over 1,000 artisans to international fashion. “Deepa’s Flowers” were crafted from sustainable cow horn and recycled brass. The neckline and the beaded belt of the gown is traditional Maasai beadwork. Also collaborating on the look is Mumwa Crafts Association in Zambia, who created a shoulder purse made from Zambian palm leaf. The purse has been embellished with Deepa Flowers crafted from recycled leather, Zambian Shitenge Fabric from Mumwa Crafts and sustainable cow horn along with a recycled brass Deepa Flowers shoulder strap from Artisan Fashion. The look was complete with a woollen shawl.
The Exchange: Rwanda x Uganda
Designer Haute Baso x artisan Ihato
Pierra Ntayombya, the creative director of Haute Baso, created a look using wool and upcycled mosquito nets, embellished with upcycled beads from traditional accessories such as necklaces and bracelets, and handmade beads from Ugandan jewellery maker Ihato. The beads are made from recycled paper, which is then cut into triangular shapes, rolled and glued, and finished with varnish. The top was made from a locally sourced mosquito net, naturally dyed grey using fermented cassava. Conventional insecticide treated mosquito nets last between 6 to 12 months therefore thousands of mosquito nets are disposed of annually to protect people from Malaria.
The Exchange: Botswana x Swaziland
Designer iZAURA x artisans Quazi Design
Mothusi Lesolle of Botswana and Doron Shaltiel of Swaziland collaborated on a design that symbolised principles important to both countries: The white linen fabric represents purity, an expectation of young women in Swaziland. The red recycled paper beads raise awareness of HIV/AIDS, while the black beads signify the power in the culture of the people of Swaziland and pay tribute to the power of women. The corset was created in the shape of a shield, and symbolises the protection afforded to the Commonwealth by the Queen.
Kibonen New Yorks look at Australian High Commission, London by Kibonen New YorkCommonwealth Fashion Council
The Exchange: Cameroon x United Republic of Tanzania
Designer Kibonen New York x artisan Makory Mgece
The gown designed by Kibonen was made from lightweight Woolmark certified wool, trimmed with Maasai beading from Mgece Makory in Tanzania. Intricate embroidery features on the patterned Toghu cloth, traditionally worn by rulers of the North West region of Cameroon.
The Exchange: Nigeria x Malawi
Designer NKWO x artisan Joel Suya
This look was created with organic British wool and embellished with Swarovski upcycled crystals. The look was designed by Nkwo and named ‘Spirit of the Dance’. It is made from Aso Oke, a hand-loomed cloth woven by a group of women based in Kogi state in central Nigeria, according to a traditional craft of the Yoruba people. The piece was inspired by a secretive religion indigenous to Malawi, called Nyau. During a special ceremony, attendees wear wooden masks and act out spirits of the dead, in order to communicate with them. Avec Amour’s Angela Fuka Mpando sourced an expert wood carver from Blantyre, the second largest city in Malawi, and home to the country’s commercial industries. Carving is a traditional craft in Malawi, skills being passed from father to son. The carver produced 12 miniature masks that have been sewn into the dress and tiny upcycled mirrored embellishments are scattered over the skirt.
The Exchange: Sierra Leone x Ghana / The Gambia
Designer Sydney-Davies x artisans Big Dread Kente / Ousman Toure, Continent Clothing
Sydney-Davies and Big Dread Kente worked together to create a natural raffia-fringed hand-woven kente cloth midi skirt with recyclable plastic blocking, and a bralet top embellished with Swarovski upcycled crystals in queen bee motifs. The outfit was complete with an oversized bardot wrap jacket made from hand-woven gold kente cloth, hand-woven country cloth, and 100% wool, and a handmade necklace and bracelet crafted by Ousman Toure in The Gambia. The necklace was made using glass beads and wooden Malawian trade beads which were traditionally used as tender. Sydney-Davies “came across Big Dread Kente on Instagram and immediately fell in love with kente cloth and its rich history.”
The Exchange: Mozambique x Mauritius
Designer Zinzi De Brouwer x artisans Beautiful Local Hands
Inspired by Maputo’s best-loved architect, Pancho Guedes, who shaped much of the city’s post-modernist buildings, Zinzi created a dress that represents the juxtaposition of past and present in the urban landscape of the city. The fabric nods towards the Maasai tradition for checks and the grid-like structure of the city, while the ruffles and gathers symbolise the lush vegetation and the warm sunshine dappled through palm leaves. Beautiful Local Hands’ artisans, James Warren (aka Pop) and Dany Couyava, created a necklace and bangles to accessorise the look, made from locally sourced polished coconut sewn onto beige canvas.
The Exchange: Pacific
Highlighting ancient traditions, exchanges from the Pacific celebrated the beauty of natural resources and the power of shared histories.
Participating countries included; Samoa, Papua New Guinea, Tonga, Nauru, Fiji, The Seychelles, New Zealand, Cook Islands, Australia, Solomon Islands, Tuvalu, Kiribati
The Exchange: Samoa x Papua New Guinea
Designer Afa Ah Loo
Afa designed his Commonwealth Fashion Exchange gown based on his love of traditional Samoan materials. The gown itself was made using linen for the central section, and a floral print from Afa’s archive, then accessorized with a sash made from the traditional Samoan material Afa, which is a yard/rope made out of coconut husk. The gown features handmade and painted flower embellishments, made by Margie Keates of The Lovely Avenue using recycled paper, and by Ofeira Asuao of AliiRas Backdrops using upycled foam. The look was complete with an original Papua New Guinea curved necklace of brown braided rope, decorated with four bands of cream coloured curled shells. The necklace is fastened by two groups of braided cord bands, each decorated with a small white shell pendant.
The Exchange: Tonga x Nauru
Designer Bou Fonua x artisan Rendina Edwards
Bou selected Feta’aki for her design, a papery material made from the bark of the Mulberry tree, and lined with raw silk. The Feta’aki represents the cultural wealth of Tonga, dating back many centuries, and used as a sign of respect in gift-giving. The silk is also made from the mulberry tree and signifies wealth and prosperity. The look was complete with traditionally inspired hand-made jewellery made by Rendina Edwards from Nauru.
The Exchange: Fiji x Vanuatu / Seychelles
Designer Hupfeld Hoerder Designs x artisans Tousong Kalsong, Liza Garo, Marie Rorou / Rolan & Anna Payet
Hupfeld created an off-the-shoulder, corseted blouse from Vanuatu fibre, with a peplum finished with Fijian magimagi (coconut fibre), barkcloth and mother of pearl shells embroidered into a geometric flower pattern. The skirt was made from recycled Fijian Masi cloth (a traditional cotton fabric) which was hand-printed with geometric designs representing various parts of the region and embellished with appliqued flowers. The look was complete with jewellery created by Rolan & Anna Payet, using shells from the Seychelles.
The Exchange: New Zealand x Cook Islands
Designer Karen Walker x artisans Kuki Airani Creative Mamas
Karen Walker worked with a community of tivaivai craftswomen from the Cook Islands, now resident in New Zealand. Her dress was made from dusty pink Italian wool flannel and is covered in claret-coloured tivaivai embroidered flowers. The flowers are iconic flora of the Māmās’ island home and include gardenia, jasmine, orchid, fruit salad plant, hibiscus, fringed hibiscus, red ginger, frangipani and the Cook Islands national flower, Tiare Māori. Added to these are the beloved Karen Walker daisies. The 10 plant varieties are brought to life with 12 different traditional stitch styles.
The Exchange: Australia x Solomon Islands
Designer KITX x artisans Pasifik Creations
The gown created by KITX has a bodice and skirt made from lightweight GOTS certified organic crepe wool sourced from a Woolmark approved mill, overlaid with a traditional straw skirt from the Solomon Islands and embellished with trochus shell beads made by hand by a cooperative of women expert at this ancient craft.
The Exchange: Cyprus x Kiribati
Designer Afroditi Hera x artisans The Kiribati Handicraft Association
Afroditi designed her signature kaftan in blue silk overlaid with a printed chiffon of her own design. Through the use of buttons the look can be worn in three different ways, and has been completed with traditional ornamental beading created by artisans in Kiribati using grass, paper and shells.
The Exchange: UK
Designer Burberry
Burberry designed a look using the highest quality Oeko-Tex certified Australian Merino wool to create a reimagined trench coat, accompanied by woollen trousers made with Oeko-Tex certified yarns, and knitwear made with non-muelsed wool. The suppliers and manufacturers involved in creating the look are part of Burberry’s 2020 project, involved in capacity building programmes encompassing training relating to ethical performance, audits, chemical management practices, and adhering to Burberry’s code of conduct.
The Exchange: Malta x India
Designer Charles and Ron x artisan Khushboo
Charles & Ron created look of Woolmark certified wool crepe, with a full, floor-length skirt embellished with beaded appliqué Maltese door-knockers. The coordinating blouse features Maltese lace, and a Maltese hand-tooled leather belt completes the look. The Maltese doorknockers were designed by Charles & Ron, then sent to Khushboo in Mumbai. Khushboo is a 24-year-old woman who oversees the creation of beading and embellishments through her network of local artisans. She will select the craftsperson most suited to the various projects commissioned by Charles & Ron, then ensure that the quality is in keeping with the brand’s high standards.
The Exchange: UK x India
Designer Stella McCartney x artisans Oshadi
Stella created a gown using Oshadi’s peace silk, produced using ancient hand-weaving techniques, and naturally dyed by local skilled craftsmen in Tamil Nadu. Peace silk is reeled from empty cocoons, meaning that silkworms are left to hatch into moths before the silk is spun from the cocoons in a way similar to spinning wool. It takes a weaver one day to create 5m of hand woven peace silk using a hand loom, compared to hundreds that can be produced by machine.
The Exchange: Caribbean and Americas
An explosion of culture, history, local materials and beautiful craftsmanship, exchanges from the Caribbean and Americas celebrated diverse stories, highlighting the power of fashion for supporting livelihoods.
Participating countries included; Jamaica, Belize, Canada, Namibia, St Kitts and Nevis, Grenada, St Vincent and The Grenadines, Saint Lucia, Trinidad and Tobago, Dominica, The Bahamas, Barbados, Guyana, Antigua and Barbuda
The Exchange: Jamaica x Belize
Designer drennaLUNA x artisans MayaBags
The skirt portion of this dress was made of individually cut flowers featuring six petals, folded together in three stages and attached to the core fabric of the garment. Fabric for the jacket and bodice was created from the selvedge offcuts of the fabric that was used for these flowers, by sewing rows of selvedge together for a subtly manipulated textile. The look was complete with a hand-made bag from MayaBags, an artisanal company in Belize working to preserve and enhance traditional Maya handwork skills. The “uh tok” or in English “Moon Spark” basket purse is made from a coiled and stitched basket frame woven of plant fiber (Jippi Jappa), covered with a Maya hand-woven fabric, lined with Dupion silk, and fastened with a coconut button and macramé loop closure.