Mahlangu's Caravan
From public art commissions to travelling art installations - discover the incredible story behind Esther Mahlangu's mysterious caravan
By Art of Contemporary Africa
Content curated from the "Then I Knew I Was Good at Painting": Esther Mahlangu, A Retrospective exhibition timeline
Esther Mahlangu's caravanArt of Contemporary Africa
1990: 'Arts in the Sun'
In 1990, Esther Mahlangu painted a caravan for the Les Arts au Soleil: La Caravane des Caravanes project in France, commissioned by the French Ministry of Culture. This project involved transforming caravans into works of art by renowned artists.
Esther Mahlangu's caravanArt of Contemporary Africa
From Bordeaux to the beaches
Mahlangu's caravan represented the Aquitaine region of France. It was painted in Bordeaux before travelling along the southwestern French coastline from beach to beach, joining a route through La Teste-de-Buch.
Mahlangu, assisted by her son Elias as her trusted translator, spent weeks painting the caravan with chicken-feather brushes in her iconic style. The Les Arts au Soleil commission was her second public engagement after Magiciens de la Terre (1989) in France. It aimed to democratise contemporary art by bringing it directly to the public, beyond traditional galleries. Mahlangu's participation was a key part of this initiative.
Esther Mahlangu's caravanArt of Contemporary Africa
A decade of mystery
After touring the French coast, Mahlangu's caravan vanishes from public view during the 1990s, leaving a gap in its documented history until the early 2000s. As a result, her caravan is less documented than some of her other vehicle-based artworks, like the 'BMW 525i Art Car' (1991).
Esther Mahlangu’s caravan at Les Trésors de l'Art ModesteArt of Contemporary Africa
2001-2013: Reemergence in Sète
In 2001, the caravan reappears on the southeastern coast of Sète as part of the Musée International des Arts Modestes (M.I.A.M.) collection and is later displayed as part of their 10th anniversary exhibition Les Territoires de l'Art Modeste (2013).
Archipelago Hervé Di Rosa inviteArt of Contemporary Africa
2023: Lisbon
A decade later, Mahlangu's caravan has travelled to an even greater distance than Sète. It was exhibited at the Museu de Arte Arquitetura e Tecnologia (MAAT) in Lisbon, Portugal, as part of Archipelago Hervé Di Rosa (2023). The artwork continues to promote cultural exchange.
Windows in 1990
It's interesting to see that while the outside of the caravan looks almost the same, the magic happens within the windows as the displayed objects change over time. These objects vary from paintings to African figurines that appear not to be in Mahlangu’s style and aesthetic.
The same window in 2013
This example demonstrates a classic use of the caravan window, resembling house lace curtains. Notice how the lace curtain's design incorporates geometric elements through its zig-zag patterns.
Sculptures by Bienvenu Nanga in window display
Bienvenu Nanga's sculptures in the caravan's windows offer a dynamic contrast to Mahlangu's fixed exterior art; creating a dialogue between Ndebele tradition and contemporary sculpture, visible to passersby. The windows become a mini-gallery, evolving over time.
Pair of puppets by Widjo Wyombo installed in window display
Wyombo's puppet pair in the caravan's windows adds a narrative element to Mahlangu's static art. Their presence creates a mini-theatre within the mobile gallery. The changing puppet displays offer evolving stories upon this Ndebele stage.
Map of the caravan throughout it years of travelArt of Contemporary Africa
The caravan's geographic footprints are shown on this map - from Bordeaux in 1990 to Lisbon in 2023 via Sète in 2001-2013. Whilst we don't know where or when this canvas on wheels may next appear, we hope to follow its history as part of Mahlangu's legacy.
Thank you to the Musée International des Arts Modestes (M.I.A.M.) and contributors from Museu de Arte Arquitetura e Tecnologia (MAAT) for giving us insight into the recent movements and documentation of the caravan. Thank you to Françoise Adamsbaum from Hervé Di Rosa
Photo credit, 2013 image of the caravan: Pierre Schwartz.
Photo credit, 2023 images of the caravan: Bruno Lopez.
Graphic Design for MAAT exhibit: Lisa Moura.
For more information please visit Hervé Di Rosa and Musée International des Arts Modestes Les trésors de l’Art modeste.
A special thanks goes out to Philippe Bouthier and Mrs. G-L and family for helping us unearth the links between Bordeaux and this event.
Early images in this story were graciously offered by Esther Mahlangu's Family Archives during the course of research. These images were then made accessible to public in the exhibition timeline of "Then I Knew I Was Good at Painting": Esther Mahlangu, A Retrospective (2024-2025)
You are all set!
Your first Culture Weekly will arrive this week.