How Udon Noodles Became a Japanese Favorite

Another important symbol of Kagawa Prefecture is Sanuki udon. Udon noodles are considered fast food and found all over Japan, but the consumption rate of udon per household in Kagawa is three times more than the national average. Proclaiming themselves as the Udon Prefecture, udon culture is treasured by the people and you can find faucets that pour broth. Sanuki udon’s presence in Kagawa can’t be compared, so let’s take a look back at its history.

Manno pond is located in South West Kagawa in Manno town in Nakatado district. The pond is the largest irrigation reservoir in Japan. For centuries, the reservoir has provided water to the entire Marugame plains region which has very little rain and barely any rivers. Throughout history, the reservoir broke frequently because of floods and many people suffered. It is said that Kukai was able to reconstruct the reservoir in just three months. About 1,200 years ago, he designed the modern arch type dam to reconstruct the reservoir. The farmers who worked on that reconstruction were fed noodles made from wheat.

Takinomiya Tenmangu is a shrine in Ayagawa town in Ayauta district. Takinomiya shrine is associated as the birthplace of udon, a stone relic in the shrine called the Ryutoin-ato marks where the first udon was made. What Kukai learned about making udon in China, he taught his nephew Chisen, and it is said the family ate udon at this spot. Back then udon were not noodles, they were pieces of flattened round dough.

During the Edo period (1603-1869) making a visit to the Kotohira shrine, a place associated with spirituality from long ago, became a tradition around Japan. The visit is known as Kompira-mairi. During the Edo period, common people were banned from travelling. However visits to the Kotohira shrine and the Ise shrine were considered special cases. Visiting the Kotohira shrine became a popular attraction and many people wished to pay respect at the shrine at least once during their lifetime. Visitors to the Kotohira shrine came from all over Japan and they ate Sanuki udon at the gates. As soon as the visitors went home, the word spread about these delicious noodles.

Today there are many udon shops at the foot of Kotohira shrine. Some shops are hundreds of years old dating back to the Edo period and some shops only opened within the past ten to twenty years. One udon shop that stands out is a 400-year-old establishement that is in a preserved traditional Japanese inn. Each shop has its own unique style of serving the noodles and broth. Trying udon at the different shops until you find your favorite is a fun way to explore.

The environment of Kagawa prefecture is fit for producing wheat, another reason why udon became a staple here. Most of Japan has a lot of rain fall and is humid, so the climate is not fit for producing wheat. However, in Kagawa the climate is mild and dry and has quality soil, which led to an increase in wheat production. During the Muromachi period (1336-1573), farmers began multiple crops, and grew rice and wheat together. This was a technique developed by the early farmers to use the small fields efficiently. Many farms continue to have multiple crops today.

Olives have been produced in Kagawa prefecture for more than 100 years. The olives are handpicked and grown with the utmost care. Olives contain many antioxidants such as oleic acid that is said to prevent lifestyle diseases and improve health, while polyphenol that is said to be useful in preventing cancer. The residue from the pressed olives are dried through a heating process and fed to cattle. These premium cattle raised on olives are branded as “Kuroge Wagyu ga Olivegyu”. The newest wave in Sanuki udon is udon, served with a topping of the exquisite olive-fed wagyu.

The Sanuki udon’s appeal is never ending as you get to know more about it. It is easy to see why its popularity has not waned over the years. Times and generations may change but the appetite and love for udon will be passed on.