How Contemporary Tools are Developing Traditional Skills

A look at how contemporary tools are used aid traditional skills in production of jewellery in Rajasthan

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

Gem Plaza, being one of the most forward-thinking jewellery houses of India, has introduced a more modernistic approach towards crafting jewellery without hampering its traditional touch. To add to their competitiveness, they use the most sophisticated machinery to assist hand work to relieve drudgery. To compete with global jewellery houses they have introduced similar machines with German technology as used by Cartier and Bvlgari. 

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gyan Jewels (2017-02) by Gyan JewelsDastkari Haat Samiti

Technology assists traditional craftsmanship

The intricate process of jewellery-making conventionally starts with designing. To get precision in the design, Computer Aided Design (CAD) software is used. Once the design is approved, it enables the CAD artist to see the underlying details of the design which are otherwise not visible to the naked eye. 

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

Sunil Jahangir, a CAD designer, meticulously works on perfecting the design of a gold pendant.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

A 3-dimensional design of a pair of earrings shows each layer of the design. It gives a clear idea to the craftsmen and designer, of the exact size and placement of the stones.

In the words of Akhil Dhaddha, marketing manager of the establishment, "CAD has made designing faster and more precise as compared to hand drawn blueprints".

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

Shamool Dev selects gemstones and arranges them in the required order. He assesses the effect on a wax replica of a multi-tier neck piece.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

Detail of a craftsperson placing gemstones on a wax mould of a neckpiece by assessing its final effect.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Jewellery manufacturing unit (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

Satish Shukla, a quality controller, supervises a craftsperson and checks the frame of a gold neckpiece before stones are set in it.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Jewellery manufacturing unit (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

A quality control expert oversees the fineness of a gold frame of a neckpiece.

The frame is placed on wax to avoid displacement of the tiny joints of the neck piece.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

Once a piece of jewellery is created by craftsmen, it goes through multiple rounds of cleaning. It involves cleaning with an ultra-sound machine.

Then it is dipped in water in which vibrations are created as a further form of cleaning.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

A craftsperson polishes a diamond ornament with a magnetic plate. To prevent diamond dust from being inhaled or getting into the craftsman’s eyes, the process is performed in a transparent case.

These cases are connected to a vacuum vent which soaks up the stone and metal dust produced while polishing.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Part of the cleaning process of a necklace (2018-03-01) by Gyan MuseumDastkari Haat Samiti

The final stage of cleaning involves steaming which helps in eliminating the smallest dust particles and water stains.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

3-D printers: revolutionising the way we create

3D printers have revolutionised the traditional process of making jewellery. These printers are used to create wax models of rings, pendants, earrings, bangles, necklaces and bracelets in different sizes and styles, replacing silver or metal models. Different types of technology are also used for fixing, soldering and cleaning precious and semi-precious stones, leading to the creation of a flawless piece of jewellery. 

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

Earlier, the moulds were made of silver and it was only after the final approval of the design that the use of precious metal for the final piece would start.

A range of 3-D printed wax moulds show the role of technology as an accelerator in the process of creating a design in a cost effective manner.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

A wax model of Lord Ganesha, a Hindu deity, made in a 3-D printer can be seen at many work stations.

Artists use the same technology to create a wax image of their favourite deity..

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

Building a better work place for the craftsman

The assistance of technology, adding to the ease of creation, is not limited to the manufacturing of jewellery but also contributes to providing a better work culture. An air conditioned environment, protective gear, adequate lighting, and attention to a clean environment are the areas in which technology helps to enhance the craftsperson’s productivity, loyalty and skill.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

Shashankan Devnath uses an earthen pot full of Plaster of Paris to join the metal ends of the ring by soldering it with a fire gun.

The master craftsman is also the oldest employee of the establishment. He has been working here for 23 years.

He expresses satisfaction with the work culture at the organisation which encourages the building of long-term relationships between craftspeople and their managers.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

An inside view of the jewellery workshop.

It offers a dignified working environment and adequate functional space that is well-lit, well-equipped, and well-organised.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gem Plaza Jewellery (2018-03) by Gem PlazaDastkari Haat Samiti

A picture of the Hindu deity Durga, pinned on the workstation of a craftsperson, shows the sanctity attached to the craft of jewellery making.

A goldsmith considers his work, which demands total and prayerful concentration, equivalent to an act of worship.

Jewellery of Rajasthan: Gyan Museum (19 century) by Gyan museumDastkari Haat Samiti

Credits: Story

Text: Rashmi Sacher
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisans: Craftspersons at Gem Plaza workshop
Ground Facilitator: Harneet Pabbla, Rashmi Sacher
Documentary Video: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Curation: Ruchira Verma

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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