Wild and Rare

Despite a deep historical connection to harvesting wild species for clothing and the continued use of rare and exotic species in fashion across the world, the use of wild animals in fashion remains an uncomfortable and highly charged topic.

Man's Raccoon Coat by Holt Renfrew, Canadian, c. 1920s

In the early 17th century, the harvesting and trade in beaver pelts facilitated the exploration of what came to be Canada. In doing so, the relationships between Europeans and Indigenous communities were forever transformed.

Ermine Stole, Canadian, 1910s

The ecological impact of harvesting wild species was not well understood at the time, and overhunting of these animals caused their numbers to dwindle significantly, taking years to recover.

Colobus Monkey Fur Coat, American, c. 1940

Despite growing animal rights activism demand for rare and exotic furs soared well into the 20th century, shifting from species to species as tastes changed.

Geoffrey Cat Fur Coat, American, c. 1940

Although fur does not hold the same currency in our culture as it did, it remains highly desired in other parts of the world. Indeed, harvesting fur in Canada remains a charged and debated issue.

Velvet Toque trimmed with egret, c. 1913

The great egret and snowy egret were harvested for millinery during the peak of their breeding season when their feathers were at their most luxurious. This lead to significant reductions in their populations, endangering their existance.

Goura Feather Trimmed Hat by Laddie Northridge, New York, c. 1958

In 1896, Bostonians Harriet Hemenway and Minna Hall encouraged women to end the hunt of wild birds for plumes and join the Massachusetts branch of the National Audubon Society. By 1897 1,000 women had joined.

Belgian Hat with two 'bee-eater' Birds, c. 1945

Their activism was part of a growing conservation movement for protecting wild birds that targeted not only the fashion industry, but also sport hunting and habitat destruction.

Caiman Alligator leather purse, early 1900s

The popularity for reptile skins had a significant impact on various species. American alligator populations had decreased so much through over-harvesting, by 1967 the American alligator was placed on the endangered species list.

Crocodile Foot Purse, c. 1910

Despite ongoing legal, ethical, and conservation issues pertaining to skins, great strides in conservation have been made. For example, Louisiana’s Rockefeller Refuge began a farming and release alligator program in the late 1960s.

Dyed Python Snakeskin Shoes, c. 1975

Illegal trading in wild-caught as opposed to captive-bred snakes and other reptiles, falsified import and export permits, and other forms of fraud continue to impact wild and rare species globally.

Whalebone (Baleen) Corset, c. 1890

Baleen is pliable and strong, and used by whales to filter food from the sea. It became a useful byproduct from the whale oil industry for making corsets. Whaling depleted several whale species before petroleum replaced whale oil in the late 19th century.

Hawksbill Turtle 'Tortoiseshell' Comb, c. 1830

A global industry grew around the hawksbill sea turtle, prized for its rich, marbled shell. These shells have been made into various fashion items, including jewelry and combs.

'Tortoiseshell' Calling Card Case Inlaid with Mother of Pearl, 1880s

Habitat destruction has also impacted turtle species. Despite progress in protecting whale and marine turtle populations, a lack of law enforcement and illegal trade, continues to impact their recovery and growth.