The Ema Klabin House Museum
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What is fashion?
Fashion arose as the organization of one’s personal appearance among French and Italian nobles between the 14th and 15th centuries. From the Latin, modus, the word stems from their “mode or manner of conduct”, as they expressed their individuality and power through their dress
Maggy Rouff by Anne-Marie Besançon de Wagner (side) Maggy Rouff by Anne-Marie Besançon de Wagner (1950) by Maggy RouffThe Ema Klabin House Museum
Calligraphy of gestures
Gilda de Mello e Souza, the Brazilian philosopher, recounts, in her book O espírito das roupas – a moda no século dezenove (The Spirit of Clothes – Fashion in the 19th Century), how, at parties, garments externalize a woman’s soul by creating a “calligraphy of gestures”.
Maggy Rouff by Anne-Marie Besançon de Wagner (detail) Maggy Rouff by Anne-Marie Besançon de Wagner (1950) by Maggy RouffThe Ema Klabin House Museum
In this manner, a woman constitutes her individuality much like a work of art, one in which the playful and aesthetic aspects of fashion transform into a style of existence.
The modernization of woman
After the third industrial revolution and during May 68, fashion entered a new phase, turning no longer to the tastes and customs of bourgeois and aristocratic life, but to the trends of the street.
Women’s rights
In the 19th century, in a society of unequal relationships between the sexes, women were confined to the home and bound for marriage. The invention of the home sewing machine, by Isaac Singer, allowed many to gain a source of income and autonomy from being seamstresses.
Dress (detail) Dress (1970) by Marie-MartineThe Ema Klabin House Museum
The black dress
In 14th century Italy, because of its costly dyeing process, the color black was only used by nobles and was considered a symbol of power and piety. The color emphasized austerity and moral sobriety, characteristics revisited by the bourgeoisie of the 19th century.
Dress (side) Dress (1970) by Marie-MartineThe Ema Klabin House Museum
Forms, textures and fabrics
Starting in the 14th century, fashion, exclusive to nobility and the clergy, allowed for not just social distinction, as well as the expression of individuality through clothing.
Dress (detail) Dress (1978) by Marc Bohan for Christian DiorThe Ema Klabin House Museum
The tailor as an artist – Christian Dior
Marc Bohan, then the creative director of Maison Christian Dior, created flitting dresses in light fabrics, inspired by the 1930s and 1940s. Bohan rejuvenated the femininity and romanticism that was so typical of Dior.
Dress (back) Dress (1978) by Marc Bohan for Christian DiorThe Ema Klabin House Museum
Dress (side) Dress (1978) by Marc Bohan for Christian DiorThe Ema Klabin House Museum
Dress (detail) Dress (1978) by Marc Bohan for Christian DiorThe Ema Klabin House Museum
Haute couture – Jean Patou
Jean Patou revolutionized the concept of dressing up for women in the 1920s, he favored somber color palettes and pale tones from blue to beige, renewing the feminine image with influences of the vanguard, the art deco style and jazz.
Leopard skin coat
Widely used by Hollywood divas, the leopard skin coat stood out in the collections of Jeanne Paquin and Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, but became more widespread in the 1960s.
History of the tailleur
The tailleur is now considered a classic in women’s wardrobes. Suffragette and composer Ethel Smyth was one of the first to smash the gender barrier by using a jacket-style coat with full skirts.
Dress Dress (1980) by Designer unknownThe Ema Klabin House Museum
The 1980s
In the 1980s, fashion hits new heights. The cradle of haute couture, France, announced the opening of the Museum of Fashion Arts, in 1982, which was later incorporated into the Museum of Decorative Arts of the Louvre. At the time, then President François Mitterrand declared:
Dress (detail) Dress (1980) by Designer unknownThe Ema Klabin House Museum
Dress (detail) Dress (1980) by Designer unknownThe Ema Klabin House Museum
Dress (front) Dress (1980) by Designer unknownThe Ema Klabin House Museum
"fashion is not something that is trivial or just decorative, which would not actually be that bad. When creating fashion, you create forms of life, the pleasure of being, the pleasure of coming and going. You inspire the masses, give seasons their colors, their attitude, their movement. Countries without fashion and designers are a bit gray. They are the countries of the uniform." François Mitterrand
Cheongsam
Asian art has always piqued Ema Klabin’s interest and caught her attention, forming one of the most expressive cores of her collection. Used at parties and fancy dress events onboard cruises, these traditional Chinese dresses present highly refined examples of silk embroidery.
Furs
In the European courts, between the 14th and 19th centuries, fox, chinchilla, rabbit, marten, seal, bear, otter and mink furs were symbols of royalty and power and their use was restricted and strictly controlled.
History of the floral print
In the history of clothing, the use of the floral motif has its origins in India, the cradle of the art of dyeing. The technique made its way to Europe in around the 1640s, appearing in Marseille, France, through the hands of Armenian merchants.
In 2021, within the context of the Covid-19 pandemic, the Japanese brand Comme Des Garçons brought the floral motif and embroidery to its men’s collection, debuting in Paris. Rei Kawakubo, the brand’s designer, stated:
Flowers are not there only for happy times. They exist also for tough, sorrowful and painful times. Even a tiny roadside flower can heal our shredded heart.
See the Timeline of the exposition
More information on The Ema Klabin House Museum site.
ProAC
realization
Casa Museu Ema Klabin
sponshorship
Klabin
support
Texprima e Texprima LOF
Secretaria de Cultura e Economia Criativa - Governo do Estado de São Paulo
overall coordination
Paulo de Freitas Costa
curation and research
Brunno Almeida Maia
curation and research assistant
Theo Monteiro
photographic record of the pieces
Isabella Matheus e Luciana Cury
restoration
Julio Moraes Conservação e Restauro
manikin
Manequins Moulage
text revision
Ana Martini
translation
Henrik Carbonnier
thanks
Casa Museu Eva Klabin
Dior Heritage
Guilherme Liggeri
Luisa Curvello
Gabriela Pessoa
Getty Images
José Gayegos
L´Officiel Brasil
Ricardo Kowarick
Manon Salles
Monayna Pinheiro
Museu de Arte de São Paulo – MASP
Hanayrá Negreiros
Priscila Monteiro
Société René Gruau
Gregory Klein
Vogue Brasil
Marcia Caetano
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